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Routes in The Wicked Crag

Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolly Roger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Noah Bigwood
Page Views: 2,898 total, 38/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A nice, "moderate" route located in the heart of the hardperson's paradise that is the Wicked Crag. Start by making a few stemming moves up a corner. Commit to the face on left via a nice sequence on beautiful, varnished crimps. Work through the distinct crux near the third bolt, and dance your way to the anchors on increasingly easy terrain.

Feel free to post up if you have any FA information or additional beta. Alternatively, if you are offended that I (as a "non-local") posted the route, and wish me to remove it from the database, I can do that too. I just felt it was a shame that no one had posted it yet, given that it is one of the best at the grade in the area.

Location

Just right (downstream) of the very steep routes of "The Wave" area at the Wicked Crag. Just left of the beautiful slab testpiece Techno Christ.

The route climbs a varnished black face with a smooth, wildly overhanging arete on its left.

Protection

Bolts (6?) to anchors

Photos

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
 
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
 
(Spray Alert)
This was one of my first onsights at this grade - maybe THE first. Amazing route. Mill Creek has got to be one of the best sport climbing crags anywhere in the world. Jan 30, 2013
ljh
ljh  
FA Noah BIgwood Nov 12, 2011