Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Noah Bigwood
Page Views: 3,131 total · 35/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A nice, "moderate" route located in the heart of the hardperson's paradise that is the Wicked Crag. Start by making a few stemming moves up a corner. Commit to the face on left via a nice sequence on beautiful, varnished crimps. Work through the distinct crux near the third bolt, and dance your way to the anchors on increasingly easy terrain.

Feel free to post up if you have any FA information or additional beta. Alternatively, if you are offended that I (as a "non-local") posted the route, and wish me to remove it from the database, I can do that too. I just felt it was a shame that no one had posted it yet, given that it is one of the best at the grade in the area.

Location

Just right (downstream) of the very steep routes of "The Wave" area at the Wicked Crag. Just left of the beautiful slab testpiece Techno Christ.

The route climbs a varnished black face with a smooth, wildly overhanging arete on its left.

Protection

Bolts (6?) to anchors

Photos

ljh
ljh  
FA Noah BIgwood Nov 12, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
 
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
 
(Spray Alert)
This was one of my first onsights at this grade - maybe THE first. Amazing route. Mill Creek has got to be one of the best sport climbing crags anywhere in the world. Jan 30, 2013