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Looking for scenic routes
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(sorry for plastering this on multiple boards) Hi! In less than two weeks a buddy and I will start a road trip from New Orleans to Los Angeles. Climbing is not our main goal during this trip, but at the end I'll spend a month in EPC so we'll bring our gear. My friend has never climbed outside (and is a little rusty), and we are two European guys who are not familiar with this type of scenery, that's why I would love some tips on the most beautiful sportclimbing options along our route. Places that would make a Dutch city slicker weep with joy due to the overwhelming beauty of the American spoils of nature, so to speak. Attached is the route we'll be taking, more or less. Thanks in advance!  |
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Hi Martijn, That looks like so much fun. I can only speak to some parts of your route. Right now your route through Southern NM takes you through the Organ Mountains, which are really wild and beautiful but primarily known for their trad climbing. However, hiking up the Organ Needle is lovely and you can get some of that gorgeous scenery. After the Organs you’ll pass some sport climbing in the Truth or Consequences area (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108351201/truth-or-consequences-area), but I have never been so I really can’t speak to the beauty of those. There is some sport climbing near Socorro but the bouldering is perhaps a better draw there, and I don’t think you’ll get the grand, sweeping scenery you’re looking for. Next it looks like you’re taking 550 out of Albuquerque so you’ll bypass the Santa Fe area, but if you detour a bit (about an hour north of your route), I think Diablo Canyon is gorgeous (I may be biased because it’s my home crag). It’s good basalt sport climbing year-round and the camping is easy (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105796582/diablo-canyon). White Rock is a very pretty place and warm, too, e.g., https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105946936/below-the-old-new-place. Las Conchas in the Jemez Mountains (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105845941/las-conchas) is an absolutely lovely spot and the sunny walls may be in season and you can connect back to 550 easily from there. Even more out of your way but also gorgeous and in season (if it’s sunny) is the Taos area climbing (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105868955/taos-area). Back on your route, I don’t know which of the Durango climbing is in season in the winter but that’s a really pretty area. And then you will have a gorgeous time in the Page area if you do some canyoneering. In St. George you will also find a lot of the beauty and sport climbing that you’re looking for. Red Rocks goes without saying. Enjoy! |
Amy Jordan wrote: Thank you so much! I'll try to report back if we end up at these places. Appreciate it a lot :) |
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Red Rocks in Vegas looks nearest your line of travel for beauty and tons of sport climbs. Once you get near Bakersfield you can search MP for other nearby areas if you really want to visit some smaller crags. It will be cold once you head north. I second the other's suggestion of Diablo Canyon. My amigo Bob has been busy down there. |
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Slight detour from your route, but I would definitely head slightly north and go to moab/canyonlands/indian creek for a couple days. I can't speak to sport climbing around there but you can surely find someone in the creek psyched to let you top rope some classic cracks in exchange for belays on their project. |
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Looks pretty good. You'll get great sport climbing in the Utah Hills and in Vegas. The crags in and south of Tucson aren't too shabby, either. Going through Moab won't give you much for sport climbing. You will however get to see some of the most amazing desert scenery in the world. Worth passing through, in my opinion. If you did skip Indian Creek, you could reroute to Flagstaff, where there is a bunch of sport climbing in Diablo Canyon. But then you'd have to backtrack to get to the Utah Hills. Ugh. I say skip Flagstaff and go to Moab area, then head on to St. George and Vegas. Have a blast!! |
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Truth or Consequences area climbing does have some impressive and unique scenery. I recommend it. I second the recommendation for Las Conchas, in northern New Mexico. The climbing there is very scenic. It will be cold and snowy in winter, but you can probably still climb comfortably by chasing sun. Make sure to stop by nearby San Antonio Hot Springs if you can get there. They are wild, free hot springs in a very scenic mountainous area. They're on Google Maps, easy to find. The road to them closes around January, but you can still approach from above via Aspen Ridge. Diablo Canyon is also pleasant and scenic, and may be more suitable in winter. It looks like Zion National Park is near your route. Definitely stop there. There isn't much sport climbing in the main canyon of the park. On the outskirts of the park there is Namaste Wall, which is very scenic, but different from the main canyon; make sure to see the main canyon also. Namaste Wall generally isn't climbable during winter. Absolutely go climbing in Red Rocks outside Las Vegas. Also consider stopping by Tecopa Hot Springs (the wild ones, not the resort) on your way outside Las Vegas. |
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If you guys have trad gear and run through sedona Arizona there is always Mars Attacks. The second pitch offers some amazing views! And fantastic photo ops. Some great photo ops in Isolation Canyon as well the exposure is great. Red rock canyon is amazing. I highly suggest Armatron. Bring plenty of nuts and passive protection. |
Jeremy Bultman wrote: I’ll second sedona for scenery. Also consider “sedona scenic cruise” and “dr rubos wild ride” |
 I think Mount Lemmon in Tucson, AZ probably qualifies as scenic.? Routes shown are 5.9 - Golden Egg and 5.11a - Steve's Arete |
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Mt Lemmon and Red Rock are definite scenic gems with climbing that are directly on your route. Flagstaff is also very pretty and has plenty of climbing though it is probably going to be snowy. Sedona is pretty striking, especially if you aren't going to go through the Moab area, but its even more off your route and not really any sport... and the Grand Canyon is of course one of the most spectacular places ever but since the north rim is closed during the winter you'd have to go pretty out of your way to swing by the south rim (but there is a small limestone sport climbing area that's right off the rim trail). Death Valley also is pretty amazing, but there's no climbable rock there. Looks like you'll be heading right past Clark mtn out of Vegas as well, so maybe stop and give Jumbo Love a burn ;) |
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Thanks everyone for all the great tips. I'm now staying north of Albuquerque and we'll do our first climb tomorrow in the Diablo Canyon. Psyched, looks great. |
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cochise and the dragoons might be a bit chilly, but the area is quite beautiful. ...and to get a true feel for the wide range of american culture visit bisbee and tombstone - just make sure you have a valid passport/visa ;-) |
Amy Jordan wrote: Thanks Amy! We camped next to the Organ Mountains but didn't climb there unfortunately. Did have a lovely morning hike into the old mountain camp. This morning we climbed in Diablo Canyon. What a spot! So jealous of anyone living nearby. It was my friends first time climbing outdoors and he was instantly hooked and is pushing for more. Tomorrow we're heading to Durango, but probably no time to climb unfortunately. Did find some cool looking routes in Moab, so that'll be our next climbing stop. Thanks again :) |
old5ten wrote: Thanks for the tips! Those are perfectly along the route, since we're probably crossing the border at Agua Prieta. |
Kemper Brightman wrote: Amazing. We're staying in Tuscon for Christmas, definitely want to climb Golden Egg. |
Martijn Lenten wrote: Put "Chihuahua Power" 5.9 on the list as well. Less scenic than the golden egg, but one of the best of the grade on the mountain and gives you a real feel for the local style and flavor. Speaking of flavor, feel free to message me if you need food recs, the scene here is pretty unrivaled in the US. |
