Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Grossman
Page Views: 17,693 total · 92/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 8, 2003 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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An outstanding overhanging arete. Really positive holds and some great crimps as you get towards the top. Beware of the pump factor, and don't fear the height of the first bolt. It's on the cover of the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Great photo ops.


4 bolts to chain anchors, quickdraws only.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.
The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go. Feb 23, 2004
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
First ascent by Steve Grossman. The first bolt is gained by climbing on the ledge and traversing left. It should be easy to clip for anyone. The direct start (down and left) was bolted about a year ago by Rhicard. It adds some 10+ moves to the climb. Bolts were replaced with more modern equipment within the last two years. May 22, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Location, location, location. Great moves too on this area classic. Jan 25, 2006
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Hard to give a 20 foot route more than 2 stars... Jan 17, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
This route is only popular cause it is popular! Well it's photogenic too. It's worth climbing and projecting, but is not worth it's reputation as a 4 star classic. I think the face start at the bottom is my favorite part!

It is also misleading when people use this route as the "standard" 11a. This route only requires sustain and strength. Many other 11a/10d's on Mt Lemmon require much more technique and not so much endurance. This route took me more tries than any other 11a, and several 11b's! Dec 4, 2007
thanks for listing the baker's dozen top sport 11s :)
These routes are great(for grandma)to learn a wide variety of style, skills and techniques. Dec 7, 2007
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
You got it !

You not only half long...you half smart.

Chunky Monkey is on the Sunny Side. Dec 7, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Have to agree with Jbak two stars. That is what SQ II says so it must be true! You can add 15 feet by doing the direct start but it doesn't add any stars. Still a fun route. Mar 5, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
classic 25 feet May 20, 2008
Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
some haters of this route on this forum, a picture of this route is what got me to come out to Arizona on a little roadtrip last year and while this route was short it was certainly classic. About as exposed as you can get in 35 feet of climbing. Overhanging aretes are boss Dec 25, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
this is a 4-star route and here's why:
1. the climbing is classic. while short, the movement is amazing.
2. the route is as aesthetic as it gets. a perfect arching arete coupled with incredible views of mount lemmon and the tucson valley in the background make this one of the most photogenic routes on the mountain. so photogenic, in fact, that it made the cover of one of the premiere guidebooks for arizona.
3. this is many people's first 5.11. anyone working their way up the grades will be told they have to get on steve's arete, and they do. and they love it.
4. 5-minute approach. couple this with items 1-3 and it's a must-do route for mount lemmon. Aug 5, 2014
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
To designate something as classic I usually consider if the climb is historically significant, striking in appearance, has good rock, and is fun to climb. The climb's length is not super important to me. Aug 7, 2014
Wasn't this climb on the area's first published guidebook? I know that wasn't anything near the artistic work we have nowadays, but it must count for something. Aug 7, 2014
jaspur Chafer
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
So good to finally get on this one. Curious if my beta is the way peeps to the direct start. I clip the first 3 bolts from the left side of the arete staying on the left face. So I completely skip the ledge. Clipping the third bolt at shoulder level. Pretty cool this way but a fall from there would be a deck for sure. Didn't scare me. The jug your holding is bomber. I like the direct. Some fun moves. Totally classic climb besides the length. But I love over hanging aretes. Id give it a 3.6 star. But I'll round up to 4. Cool how there's a couple finishes. My first lead I got way around the arete left. Cool stuff Dec 29, 2014
Tomily ma  
Awesome new wave bolts for the indirect line. First ones I've seen in AZ. Thanks and thanks again to all the people who put up and replace hardware!!! Jun 7, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  

Upgrade courtesy of CASA as of a month ago.

It doesn't get any better than those WAVE bolts. Expect to see them popping up as we continue to upgrade all over the mountain. Jun 7, 2017
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
? Actual FA by Heinz Zak free solo after top roping in 1988. Dec 22, 2018