America's Best Long (Multipitch), Steep Face Climbs?

What's your vote for the best multipitch face climb in America (whether trad or sport)?

How about by grade? Favorite 5.9/5.10/5.11/5.12?

No slabs allowed. If tipping the wall to vertical would make it physically impossible to climb, it's probably disqualified. Needs to have actual holds that you pull on, not push.

I think you're taking the broader definition of 'less than vertical' rather than the 'primarily friction dependent/primarily 'pushing down' on divots' definition of slab, which is what I mean. Most of red rock is less than vertical but I'd hesitate to call much of it 'slab'.

Also, slab climbing isn't anywhere near as much fun as a steeper route at the same grade. People from all over travel to Red Rock, the Gunks, EPC, the Verdon Gorge, etc because the climbing is intuitive and steep at the given grade. I'm just curious where else fits that bill, especially in the US which is known for multipitch that's primarily either slab or crack climbing. I've climbed plenty of slab, but I'd never seek it out given a steeper alternative.

Rainbow Wall.

You can basically narrow it to a rock type being non granite, although a few great exceptions exist. (Border Country, maybe stuff in Cochise, Liberty Bell)

Canadian Rockies, Mexico in a few places, Red Rock, then a few random anomalies here and there are basically the only areas with face climbs over ~500'.

The best (or your favorite) routes from those areas will probably be the best of that style in North America. Rainbow Wall has to be up there pretty high on the list.

You live in the wrong country for this unless you climb 5.13 up the right side of el cap

A V wrote:

Dude, you just disqualified 99% of the best long multipitch face climbs - almost all of which have some slab of some kind. Slab climbing is face climbing, no? 

The OP laid it out pretty clear...

Not super big but Cannon in New Hampshire has some cool climbs that are at least not slab or purely crack climbs. 

Samuel Ammermannwrote:

Not super big but Cannon in New Hampshire has some cool climbs that are at least not slab or purely crack climbs. 

Not that I really understand dude's deal, but It's sort of an exfoliated granite dome. A lot of slab between overlaps/roofs. Probably not what dude is looking for.

-aspiring slabbo

I agree that Cannon is basically slabby and when it isn’t, most of the steeper pitches are cracks or corners. However there is another option in New Hampshire, that could fit, though possibly not tall enough for the OP—that is the South Buttress of Whitehorse, particularly the Wonderwall section. Routes like Wonderwall itself, Last Unicorn, Science Friction are all predominantly steep face climbing, especially the upper pitches. Some of the newer face climbs on Cathedral might also fit—though they are generally very hard.

Bolt protected “face climbing”, in America anyway, started on granite in the 50’s/60’s. It was called face climbing at the area where the YDS was born, Tahquitz Rock. Its sister across the valley, Suicide Rock was covered with high quality bolted face climbs in the 60’s, the most famous being Valhalla, one of the first 5.11 routes in the country.

In 1970 the two hardest routes in Wolfe’s Joshua Tree guidebook were The Orphan and The Waterchute, the only 5.9’s in the Monument - there were no 5.10s. Needless to say, that didn’t last long, but I guarantee the first bolt protected routes to appear in Josh were called face climbs, not slab climbs, and they weren’t very steep.

Nobody ever called those routes slab climbs in the 70’s. The first time I remember hearing routes called slab climbs were only routes on the Glacier Point Apron.

Given that the rating system we use in the US was based on standards at Tahquitz Rock, I think it’s worth considering that the terminology from that era should be standard also.

The OP seems to be eliminating any route that was done ground up with stance placed bolts from qualifying as a face climb, and calling them all slab climbs. This is a relatively new perspective, and seems counterproductive to clear communication between climbers. Are slabs simply anything less than vertical, IOW where does the line get drawn? Are only sport climbs face climbs now?

As high standard face climbing was evolving, the steepest routes were called high angle face climbing, and the ethics of the day prohibited bolting on rappel, so the hardest face routes were mostly no steeper than 75 or 80 degrees, with an occasional roof or vertical section..

From my perspective I see modern (sport) climbers often using “slab climbing” as a derogatory term. Some great, classic and historic rock climbs were established ground up and stance drilled, mostly on granite, they were called face climbs in the guidebooks and by the climbers of the times.

Basically, only sport routes are face climbs by the OP’s definition. Steep routes that aren’t crack climbs, but are protected with gear tend to be called trad climbs, even if the holds are face holds. Don’t hear the phrase “trad face climb” much myself, but I’m admittedly (and thankfully) out of the modern climbing loop and its lingo.

Naming the best multi pitch steep face climbs depends on the definition of steep, and face climbs.

Actual holds.

Kevin Worrallwrote:

Bolt protected “face climbing”, in America anyway, started on granite in the 50’s/60’s. It was called face climbing at the area where the YDS was born, Tahquitz Rock. Its sister across the valley, Suicide Rock was covered with high quality bolted face climbs in the 60’s, the most famous being Valhalla, one of the first 5.11 routes in the country.

In 1970 the two hardest routes in Wolfe’s Joshua Tree guidebook were The Orphan and The Waterchute, the only 5.9’s in the Monument - there were no 5.10s. Needless to say, that didn’t last long, but I guarantee the first bolt protected routes to appear in Josh were called face climbs, not slab climbs, and they weren’t very steep.

Nobody ever called those routes slab climbs in the 70’s. The first time I remember hearing routes called slab climbs were only routes on the Glacier Point Apron.

Given that the rating system we use in the US was based on standards at Tahquitz Rock, I think it’s worth considering that the terminology from that era should be standard also.

The OP seems to be eliminating any route that was done ground up with stance placed bolts from qualifying as a face climb, and calling them all slab climbs. This is a relatively new perspective, and seems counterproductive to clear communication between climbers. Are slabs simply anything less than vertical, IOW where does the line get drawn? Are only sport climbs face climbs now?

As high standard face climbing was evolving, the steepest routes were called high angle face climbing, and the ethics of the day prohibited bolting on rappel, so the hardest face routes were mostly no steeper than 75 or 80 degrees, with an occasional roof or vertical section..

From my perspective I see modern (sport) climbers often using “slab climbing” as a derogatory term. Some great, classic and historic rock climbs were established ground up and stance drilled, mostly on granite, they were called face climbs in the guidebooks and by the climbers of the times.

Basically, only sport routes are face climbs by the OP’s definition. Steep routes that aren’t crack climbs, but are protected with gear tend to be called trad climbs, even if the holds are face holds. Don’t hear the phrase “trad face climb” much myself, but I’m admittedly (and thankfully) out of the modern climbing loop and its lingo.

Naming the best multi pitch steep face climbs depends on the definition of steep, and face climbs.

Fatal flaws in your presentation: logic, thinking. 

Book of Saturday on Notch Peak is a long and “mostly” face climbing route in Utah. 

America’s best long steep face climbs are in Mexico.

Alan Rubinwrote:

I agree that Cannon is basically slabby and when it isn’t, most of the steeper pitches are cracks or corners. However there is another option in New Hampshire, that could fit, though possibly not tall enough for the OP—that is the South Buttress of Whitehorse, particularly the Wonderwall section. Routes like Wonderwall itself, Last Unicorn, Science Friction are all predominantly steep face climbing, especially the upper pitches. Some of the newer face climbs on Cathedral might also fit—though they are generally very hard.

Yeah, that section of Whitehorse was exactly what I originally had in mind when distinguishing between slab and under-vert. I’m not too sure why that stuff isn’t done more.

I'm well aware that America's not exactly a hotbed for this style. Hence the question. Every time I'm abroad I think 'damn, I wish there was more stuff like this back in the US'.

I'm surprised nobody's gone to bat for Eldo, RMNP, NC, or Tuolumne.

A few routes I've had on my wishlist outside of the usual Red Rocks suspects:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106138589/aurora-borealislunar-power

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106118280/wizard-of-air

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108192006/sun-steel

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107379399/warriors-way

And then it's not exactly long by big wall standards but the routes up N Mountain in Hueco look amazing:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106354959/rainbow-bridge

Someone has to trot out the Bachar Yerian, no?

Charles Cole told me Autobahn was “the best route in the world”

I haven’t done it, it’s called a face climb on MP

Good enough for me

It’s an outstanding line.

Southern Belle has to be another

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/121151255/deep-blue

MattHwrote:

I'm surprised nobody's gone to bat for Eldo, RMNP, ....

Well, you were looking for "best face climbs", not choss piles, right? If you're looking for chossy falling-apart face climbs, the CO team will have plenty of nominations.

Kevin Worrallwrote:

Bolt protected “face climbing”, in America anyway, started on granite in the 50’s/60’s. It was called face climbing at the area where the YDS was born, Tahquitz Rock. Its sister across the valley, Suicide Rock was covered with high quality bolted face climbs in the 60’s, the most famous being Valhalla, one of the first 5.11 routes in the country.

In 1970 the two hardest routes in Wolfe’s Joshua Tree guidebook were The Orphan and The Waterchute, the only 5.9’s in the Monument - there were no 5.10s. Needless to say, that didn’t last long, but I guarantee the first bolt protected routes to appear in Josh were called face climbs, not slab climbs, and they weren’t very steep.

Nobody ever called those routes slab climbs in the 70’s. The first time I remember hearing routes called slab climbs were only routes on the Glacier Point Apron.

Given that the rating system we use in the US was based on standards at Tahquitz Rock, I think it’s worth considering that the terminology from that era should be standard also.

The OP seems to be eliminating any route that was done ground up with stance placed bolts from qualifying as a face climb, and calling them all slab climbs. This is a relatively new perspective, and seems counterproductive to clear communication between climbers. Are slabs simply anything less than vertical, IOW where does the line get drawn? Are only sport climbs face climbs now?

As high standard face climbing was evolving, the steepest routes were called high angle face climbing, and the ethics of the day prohibited bolting on rappel, so the hardest face routes were mostly no steeper than 75 or 80 degrees, with an occasional roof or vertical section..

From my perspective I see modern (sport) climbers often using “slab climbing” as a derogatory term. Some great, classic and historic rock climbs were established ground up and stance drilled, mostly on granite, they were called face climbs in the guidebooks and by the climbers of the times.

Basically, only sport routes are face climbs by the OP’s definition. Steep routes that aren’t crack climbs, but are protected with gear tend to be called trad climbs, even if the holds are face holds. Don’t hear the phrase “trad face climb” much myself, but I’m admittedly (and thankfully) out of the modern climbing loop and its lingo.

Naming the best multi pitch steep face climbs depends on the definition of steep, and face climbs.

OP just doesn't want friction based climbing which is understandable, some find it less interesting than stuff with more variety in holds. 

Frank Steinwrote:

Someone has to trot out the Bachar Yerian, no?

BY is classic for being scary and runout, not sure if it is classic because it's actually a good climb. 

As to answer the question:

Lots of classics in the verdon are amazing at the 5.11/5.12 level. Lots of small holds and feet, great exposure but actual holds, not friction. Pichenbule comes to mind as one.

Kevin Worrallwrote:

Bolt protected “face climbing”, in America anyway, started on granite in the 50’s/60’s. It was called face climbing at the area where the YDS was born, Tahquitz Rock. Its sister across the valley, Suicide Rock was covered with high quality bolted face climbs in the 60’s, the most famous being Valhalla, one of the first 5.11 routes in the country.

In 1970 the two hardest routes in Wolfe’s Joshua Tree guidebook were The Orphan and The Waterchute, the only 5.9’s in the Monument - there were no 5.10s. Needless to say, that didn’t last long, but I guarantee the first bolt protected routes to appear in Josh were called face climbs, not slab climbs, and they weren’t very steep.

Nobody ever called those routes slab climbs in the 70’s. The first time I remember hearing routes called slab climbs were only routes on the Glacier Point Apron.

Given that the rating system we use in the US was based on standards at Tahquitz Rock, I think it’s worth considering that the terminology from that era should be standard also.

The OP seems to be eliminating any route that was done ground up with stance placed bolts from qualifying as a face climb, and calling them all slab climbs. This is a relatively new perspective, and seems counterproductive to clear communication between climbers. Are slabs simply anything less than vertical, IOW where does the line get drawn? Are only sport climbs face climbs now?

As high standard face climbing was evolving, the steepest routes were called high angle face climbing, and the ethics of the day prohibited bolting on rappel, so the hardest face routes were mostly no steeper than 75 or 80 degrees, with an occasional roof or vertical section..

From my perspective I see modern (sport) climbers often using “slab climbing” as a derogatory term. Some great, classic and historic rock climbs were established ground up and stance drilled, mostly on granite, they were called face climbs in the guidebooks and by the climbers of the times.

Basically, only sport routes are face climbs by the OP’s definition. Steep routes that aren’t crack climbs, but are protected with gear tend to be called trad climbs, even if the holds are face holds. Don’t hear the phrase “trad face climb” much myself, but I’m admittedly (and thankfully) out of the modern climbing loop and its lingo.

Naming the best multi pitch steep face climbs depends on the definition of steep, and face climbs.

Like the OP I also seek non/slab face routes, “trad” types. T&S has a few of these but trends more towards “slab”, Valhalla edging towards slab but not quite.

There’s a few routes left of Left Ski Track at T that I think embody what the OP is looking for, “face” but not “slab” and perhaps Chingladera to the right as well.