Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: PC Crew 2008
Page Views: 4,776 total · 65/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Jun 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Location

This route is located on the right side of the Iron Hayden Wall, just left of an obvious crack system (Where Vultures Dare). Look for a line of yellow bolt hangers.

Description

This is an exciting route on good rock with a cool position.

Sunlight, falling on your steel,
Death in life is your ideal,
Life is like a wheel - rolling on and on!
Sun & Steel, Iron Maiden

Pitch 1: Start just left of the obvious crack of Where Vultures Dare below an obvious bolt line w/yellow hangers and just right of a large roof 30’ up. Pull a devious crux and climb past 7 bolts (pumpy) until a thin crack comes into play. Follow the crack to a 3 bolt anchor on a marginal stance. 5.10c, 100’.

Pitch 2: Climb to the left off the anchor and follow bolts on a nicely exposed arête to a ledge (The Vultures Nest) with a 3 bolt belay. 5.9, 100’.

Pitch 3: Climb up the steep, wide crack to the left of the anchor. Make an exposed move out of the crack to the left below a roof. Pull past the roof on its left side and follow bolts and gear placements up a steep face. Belay on a blocky ledge from a 2 bolt anchor. An intimidating pitch. 5.10d, 100’.

Pitch 3 Variation: Beer Mule.

Pitch 4: Begin 10’ left of the anchor at a bolt and climb up passing more bolts on a steep face heading for the right side of a large roof. Pass the roof and perform several insecure layback/sidepull moves up to a ledge . Belay from 2 bolts. 5.11a/b, 90’.

Protection

Single rack to a #3 Camalot, many bolts.
60 Meter Rope.
Helmet.

Descent

Rappel the route

Photos