Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, Grade III
FA: Mike Head, Dave Head and James Crump
Page Views: 899 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details
Access Issue: See notes for Hueco Tanks Access Details


The first pitch is perhaps the most fun .10+/.11- on the Front Side. The second pitch is 5.9. The last is "one of the wildest pitches at Hueco Tanks", 5.11r. (Sherman, Head, Crump, Head, 1991)

Pitch one starts in an open, grassy, area below the oak tree and cave ledge of Tree Crack. Follow six bolts up right on clean gray rock and along a bolted right leaning crack. After connecting with Deliverance, #2 and #3 Camalots are nice for protecting the 5.9 crack to the belay bolts. It is a 25 meter rappel off from here. (Now your set to top rope Deliverance)

Pitch two starts with a 5.8/5.9 step right onto a black rib. 50 feet up to the belay bolts. Small stoppers are useful on this pitch. (Paul Piana, 1992)

Pitch three climbs the overhung buttress right of Indecent Exposure. Move right off the ledge, then up to the first of two bolts. Move right to the second bolt and a rest. Next move up to a bulge and pass it on the left. After the bulge, climb straight up easier rock to the summit.


Walk the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and take the trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Then follow the cliff left (north), high-stepping up some easy talus. Before reaching the Tree Crack/Indecent Exposure belay zone, spot a line of bolts in gray rock that angle up right.


In addition to the #2 and #3 Camalots for the end of pitch one, my notes tell me to bring a .75 Camalot and steel nuts too.


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Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.11b/c R
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.11b/c R
I agree with the description - the first pitch is super-fun and varied. My favorite at Hueco and as good a pitch as you'll find anywhere. It's full value - I thought the crux move was 5.11b/c. The rack I used is a few draws, a 0.4 deep in the undercling/pocked to protect the traverse to the finishing handcrack, and a #1 and #2 for the crack itself. There is a fixed nut high on the route. You can rap to the ground with a 60m. Oct 20, 2014
Gabriel Flores
El Paso, TX
Gabriel Flores   El Paso, TX
One of the best routes at hueco, for me the first crux comes in after bolt #2 getting to bolt #3, thin moves on small feet. The second crux for me would be transitioning into the crack and finishing the route (PUMPY) Jul 30, 2018