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Toprope-able offwidths?

Original Post
Erik G · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 35

I've perused the forums and I've found posts about offwidth circuits and best offwidth routes but none toprope specific (as I'm still learning to climb them and would rather not lead them yet).

Ideally, I'd like to find some that can be toproped from either direct access to the top or by climbing a different route next to it (a harder not-offwidth is fine). 

I've been on Crack a Beer in clear creek already and it kicked my butt.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Skyeler Congdon · · Western Slope · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 3,449

A lot come to mind in Unaweep Canyon. Obe Won Canobe is TR'able after climbing Padewon, and there are a few other options on the Hidden Valley Wall, all are relatively easy to access once you're on top. Right next to that wall is Fortress Wall, which has Renaissance ****, which you can climb an adjacent route (Veracocha, for example) and walk over to TR. 

Moonshadow is a classic hand crack with some 10+ OW that is easily TR'd because you can drive to the top of the cliff. Great 200' pitch. This is on Quarry Wall (with directionals Sidewinder and Chariots of Fire are also tr-able off the same anchor and are mega classic). On the same cliff band, in a section called Massey Wall, is a OW called Space Between, 9++. These routes all have tags on the anchor so can be sure what you're rapping into.

For more moderate OW, Lower Mother's Buttress has some easy TR set ups, since you can scramble up the north east side. Mint Jam as some nice OW, as does Cowabunga and Fine Line (Welcome Party, too, I think). 

Also, if you make it out to this region, there is a brutal OW toprope called Lisenby Roof if you want something a little harder. If you head out to Indian Creek there is a nice OW called Sumo that can be tr'd after leading Chachapoya, on the Resevoir Wall.

If you bring a ladder and a lot of rope you could TR Industrial Strength in CNM https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118003029/wide-load-aka-industrial-strength   ;) 

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297
Erik Gwrote:

I've perused the forums and I've found posts about offwidth circuits and best offwidth routes but none toprope specific (as I'm still learning to climb them and would rather not lead them yet).

Ideally, I'd like to find some that can be toproped from either direct access to the top or by climbing a different route next to it (a harder not-offwidth is fine). 

I've been on Crack a Beer in clear creek already and it kicked my butt.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

You can get to the anchors of By Gully by climbing Final Exam and angling up and right to the bolted anchor.  Not sure what size you are looking for.  By Gully is more of a squeeze chimney than the kind of OW that would require Levitation.  You can also TR Coffin Crack from this anchor.  It's not sustained, but has a few hard OW moves.  You could probably get to the same anchor by starting up Bailey's Overhang, and angling hard right across the slab, but I've never done it. 

You can also TR The Umph Slot with a bit of shenanigans.  If you rap in from the top to the ledge at the top of Umph Slot, you can build a gear anchor and TR the OW from the ground (with a lot of easier climbing below), or from the ledge below the OW with another gear anchor.  Once you're done, the climb off the ledge has several easy options.

T D · · Splatte · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 3,904

Me and some friends have been working on an area in the S Platte that is almost exclusively Offwidth. Most of them are pretty easily topropable, easily aided, or have some sort of low 5th class climb alternative to reach the anchors. Best of all, it is basically roadside.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118867058/whiskey-rocks-north

Additionally, there is another area we found down the gully that has a great OW called Tiger King which is one of the most splitter offwidths I've seen in the front range.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119296666/tiger-king

Nathan Sullivan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Voo has them, of course, but it looks like you are down in southern CO.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105952398/penetration

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105751837/slit and https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105751849/lower-slot-and-upper-slot

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105751369/mother-1

I think you can scramble to the top of penetration, mother 1 probably requires climbing Baldwin's Chimney (5.4) first.  I've done Slit and know it has a walk-up gulley that also gets you to the top of upper/lower slot.

Also, my nemesis route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105751843/handjacker

Edit: forgot to ask, are you comfortable building toprope anchors with gear?  Most routes in Voo will need that.

Erik G · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 35

Thanks all! 

Let the humbling begin haha

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

You fucks are a sick lot..LOL.  

Bill Kinter · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 35

Also, Huston Crack on Cob Rock in BoCan. Can easily scramble up left side to set up an anchor. It’s a hefty sandbag though. 

Max Manson · · Superior, CO and Stanford, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 491

Bacon and Ergs above Eldo is pretty cool and easy to set up a top rope but it’s quite a long approach! 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Bill Kinterwrote:

Also, Huston Crack on Cob Rock in BoCan. Can easily scramble up left side to set up an anchor. It’s a hefty sandbag though. 

IIRC it is a crack in a huge boulder???  Nice finger crack right next door???

Bill Kinter · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 35
Buck Riowrote:

IIRC it is a crack in a huge boulder???  Nice finger crack right next door???

Uhhh... yeah? Just left of the 10d Aid Crack. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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