Central Wasatch Guidebooks
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Draper Area Crags : The Balcony
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The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022Full color photos of over 200 routes. Rack information. Pitch distances. Satellite approach photos. 4" x 6". 184 pages. At 6" x 4" x .3" it packs a lot of information into a small and light package. No advertising. No action photos. No elitist attitude. Classic, Demure, Earthy, Durable, Comprehensive, Factual, Accurate, Functional, Practical. Fits in your back pocket. Photos are bigger than many in huge guides. Sport routes are blue. Traditional routes are red. Water and tear resistant polyurethane cover and binding. Matte paper is easier to write on with pencil, pen, felt tip, etc. Made in USA. $14.98 Find it at The Gear Room. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Millcreek Canyon
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The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022The scope of this book is rock climbing in the foothills of the Central Wasatch Mountains. Areas include: City Creek Canyon, Emigration Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Grandeur Hills, Millcreek Canyon, Olympus Hills, Powder Ridge, Deaf Smith Canyon, Rocky Mouth Canyon, Hidden Valley Park, Orson Smith Park and Draper Red Rock. These are your neighborhood crags. This guide compliments the author's multi-volume compilation of guidebooks to the rock climbing routes east of Salt Lake Valley. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Grandeur Peak
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The Standard Guid to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022The scope of this book is rock climbing in the foothills of the Central Wasatch Mountains. Areas include: City Creek Canyon, Emigration Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Grandeur Hills, Millcreek Canyon, Olympus Hills, Powder Ridge, Deaf Smith Canyon, Rocky Mouth Canyon, Hidden Valley Park, Orson Smith Park and Draper Red Rock. These are your neighborhood crags. This guide compliments the author's multi-volume compilation of guidebooks to the rock climbing routes east of Salt Lake Valley. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Emigration Canyon
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The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022The scope of this book is rock climbing in the foothills of the Central Wasatch Mountains. Areas include: City Creek Canyon, Emigration Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Grandeur Hills, Millcreek Canyon, Olympus Hills, Powder Ridge, Deaf Smith Canyon, Rocky Mouth Canyon, Hidden Valley Park, Orson Smith Park and Draper Red Rock. These are your neighborhood crags. This guide compliments the author's multi-volume compilation of guidebooks to the rock climbing routes east of Salt Lake Valley. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : City Creek Canyon
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The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022The scope of this book is rock climbing in the foothills of the Central Wasatch Mountains. Areas include: City Creek Canyon, Emigration Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Grandeur Hills, Millcreek Canyon, Olympus Hills, Powder Ridge, Deaf Smith Canyon, Rocky Mouth Canyon, Hidden Valley Park, Orson Smith Park and Draper Red Rock. These are your neighborhood crags. This guide compliments the author's multi-volume compilation of guidebooks to the rock climbing routes east of Salt Lake Valley. Full color photos of over 200 routes. Rack information. Pitch distances. Satellite approach photos. 4" x 6". 184 pages. At 6" x 4" x .3" it packs a lot of information into a small and light package. No advertising. No action photos. No elitist attitude. Classic, Demure, Earthy, Durable, Comprehensive, Factual, Accurate, Functional, Practical. Fits in your back pocket. Photos are bigger than many in huge guides. Sport routes are blue. Traditional routes are red. Water and tear resistant polyurethane cover and binding. Matte paper is easier to write on with pencil, pen, felt tip, etc. Made in USA. $14.98 Find it at The Gear Room. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Parley's Canyon
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The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock ClimbingTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2022The only guide ever written that has photo-topos of rock climbs in Parleys Canyon. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Big Cottonwood Canyon
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The Standard Guide to Big Cottonwood Canyon Rock Climbing, 2nd EditionTony Calderone/Mountain Dreamer Publishing/2021Over 800 rock climbing routes in Utah's Big Cottonwood Canyon are shown on full-color photos. Layout is consistent throughout to find your route fast. Routes are clearly color-coded, differentiating sport and traditional style routes. Many routes can't be found in any other source. Standard-setting approach maps include USGS-stye colored terrain with contour lines and elevation. Satellite photographs. Customized rack information for every route. No advertising. No gratuitous artwork. 6"x 4"x 1", less than 1 pound, and a laminated cover... this is a true field guide. Made in the U.S.A. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Ferguson Canyon
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Ferguson Canyon Rock ClimbingTony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2015Salt Lake locals know Ferguson Canyon has a niche following in the area's well-deserved reputation for quality crags. The climbing is on granite, but is uniquely different than the glacier-polished slabs of nearby Little Cottonwood. Typically steep cracks and seams are often horizontal, and large crystal holds are common. The canyon is a favorite with dog owners who are not allowed to bring their pups into the Cottonwood Canyons. Trying to escape the heat? Another reason climbers like Ferguson. Nearly all the routes are shaded for most of the day. And the swamp cooling effect of the nearby stream is an ever-present pleasure when temps soar. Climbing here is a pleasurable outing, rather than an adventurous commitment. Some of the best routes in the canyon include: Monogamy (5.7), Crystal Healing (5.8+), Imperial (5.9), Extreme Unction (5.10-), Delirium Tremens (5.11-), and Fuego (5.12a). Vertical finger and hand cracks may show up for a move or two, but they are, strangely, the exception. Chimneys abound. Routes didn't start going up here until the 1980s. Many of the originals were free-soloed or led using micro-nuts in flaring seams. The early pioneers included Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Drew Bedford. The 1990s saw slightly better protected routes going up with hand-drilled bolt placement by Hank Armantrout. The turn of the century brought a radically different approach from Greg Martinez. His routes provide the majority of sport climbing in the canyon. Long-time local guide, Tony Calderone, provides excellent, up-to-date information on the most comprehensive compilation of 160 Ferguson Canyon rock climbing routes. |
Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Little Cottonwood Canyon
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Little Cottonwood Rock ClimbingTony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2016This comprehensive guide includes close-up, pitch-by-pitch photos of 1000 routes... all in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Other areas are covered in separate guidebooks, leaving this guide more compact. At 6" x 4" x 1.3" it packs a lot of information into a small and light package. No advertising. No action photos. No elitist attitude. Classic, Demure, Earthy, Durable, Comprehensive, Factual, Accurate, Functional, Practical. Fits in your back pocket. Photos are bigger than many in huge guides. Sport routes are blue. Traditional routes are red. Easy to remember. Durable construction details include a water and tear resistant polyurethane cover and binding and 87# matte paper. Matte paper is easier to write on with pencil, pen, felt tip, etc. Made in USA. $29.98 Find it at: The Gear Room or REI. |
Utah : Wasatch Range
A Granite GuideNathan Smith, Andrew Burr, Tyler Phillips / PullPublishingA Granite Guide - Ferguson to Lone Peak. 2016 |
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Logan Canyon ClimbsTim Monsell, available locallyJust about the only guide to Logan out there as far as I know. Areas Covered
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Classic Rock Climbs No. 11: Wasatch Range UtahBret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1999 (Chockstone)Features the best of Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons and American Fork Canyon. Pretty limited in scope but good if you just want something small. Areas Covered
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Rock Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)Bret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1998 (Chockstone)Huge and excellent climbing resources for the Wasatch Range. Does not include American Fork but covers everything from City Creek Canyon down past Little Cottonwood. A must have. Areas Covered
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Utah
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Beehive IceNathan Smith, Andrew Burr / Pull Publishing 2014Beehive Ice: A Guide to Utah's Ice and Mixed Climbs |
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A Bouldering Guide to UtahJeff Baldwin, Mike Beck, and Mark Russo Sharp End PublishingThe definitive guide to Utah bouldering includes Little Cottonwood, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Triassic, Moab, Huntington, Price, Wasatch Front, Maple, Cedar City, Big Rocks, St. George, and the High Uintas. Photo overlays, overview maps, and inspirational action pics make this the bouldering guide of choice. |
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Utah BoulderingChris Grijalva, et al., Wolverine PublishingA comprehensive guidebook to Utah's best bouldering areas by Chris Grijalva, Noah Bigwood, Dave Pegg. Covers Little Cottonwood Canyon, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Big Bend, Ogden. Awesome action photographs and thousands of problems. |
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Rock Climbing UtahStewart M. Green, The Globe Pequot Press, 1998Covers the major climbing areas in the state; a good starting reference. |




















