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Elevation: 3,484 ft 1,062 m
GPS: 44.38154, -121.11308
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,520 total · 117/month
Shared By: Sandy Mantle on Nov 13, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An area outside the main park. Hosts a good assortment of steep, overhanging sport climbs, as well as shorter easier climbs. A widely-known secret for a long time, the area has cleaned up considerably with regular traffic, and has become a somewhat popular destination. The primary season is April to September, while the gate off of NF-5710 (Skull Hollow access road) is open. The campground at the top is very popular, fills up quickly, and sees a lot of thru-traffic (bikers, runners, 4-wheelers, campers, climbers, etc).

Unlike the vast majority of Smith, the Zoo routes typically feature overhanging, bouldery sequences split by good rests. Even in the lower grades, you can expect steeper stone with more gymnastic moves than typical in the main park.

For climbers seeking easier, well protected routes, there’s several sub-areas where you can literally send a route, move ten feet to either side, and do another of similar grade for a few routes in a row. I’d venture to posit the Zoo the best easy area at Smith. It’s without doubt the best easy and not scary Smith climbing. 

Additionally, the Zoo features a good selection of steep .12 routes—pretty much the only cave-esque terrain available for those not climbing .13 or above. The argument could be made that the Zoo features largest collection of steep routes at Smith bar none.

A few caveats: The undulating nature of the area with slabs followed by bulges means that some bolts are necessarily placed in locations that will cause rope drag higher up the line. Carrying 3 double length draws or normal length slings to clip bolts in slabs followed by bulges to eliminate this problem. After you get caught once by the boat anchor you'll learn how to spot these slab/bulge traps. Additionally, this area is relatively new: the rock quality is generally decent enough (in aggregate it is about average Smith quality), but the routes have seen comparatively few ascents—expect to at least crumble a foothold or two if not outright snap a rare hold. Consider said breakage your contribution to route improvement, a sort of community service.

Getting There Suggest change

From Skull Hollow Campground, continue driving up NF-5710 for ~1 mile. You will see a cattle guard and gate on your left, and a small pullout on your right. This gate is open from April 1st - September 27th. If the gate is open, turn left and follow NF-5720 to the top of the ridge, ~1.5 miles. This road is in pretty good shape, so even 2WD low-clearance vehicles should be able to make it with the slightest bit of caution. Once at the top, park wherever you can that doesn't block the road or intersecting trails. The trail is to the left, the camping is to the right.

The Zoo and Tasmanian Devil are a 1.5 - 1.75 mile walk or ride along the Gray Butte Trail heading southwest. A mountain bike makes the approach much more enjoyable. Once on the trail, walk down the valley, eventually turning south after passing through a gate. The pinnacle of the Tasmanian Devil will come into view. From an obvious flat area where many roads and trails intersect, you will drop down from the ridge heading initially east then curving south towards the obvious exposed rock split by the dirt road below.

77 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Zoo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Roller Girl
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Espresso Love
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Attack of the Killer Ants
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Sugar Lumps
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Needs More Cowbell
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Maritodespotism
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
One For the Dirty Girls
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
A Screaming Comes Across the Sky
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Exit...Stage Left
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
The Smell of Napalm in the Morning
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
The Sound of Perseverance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Redneck Shooting Gallery
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Immortal For a Limited Time
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Technology of Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Sympathetic Magic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roller Girl Fourth Area
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Espresso Love Fourth Area
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Attack of the Killer Ants Non-Aggro Gully, Left…
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sugar Lumps Fourth Area
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Needs More Cowbell Fourth Area
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Maritodespotism Fourth Area
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
One For the Dirty Girls Platform
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
A Screaming Comes Across th… Cave
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Exit...Stage Left Fourth Area
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Smell of Napalm in the… Cave
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Sound of Perseverance Cave
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Redneck Shooting Gallery Cave
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Immortal For a Limited Time Cave
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Technology of Fire Cave
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sympathetic Magic Cave
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Zoo »

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