Elevation: 3,586 ft
GPS: 44.382, -121.112 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,894 total · 96/month
Shared By: Sandy Mantle on Nov 13, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

An area outside the main park. Hosts a good assortment of steep, overhanging sport climbs. Recently there has been a large amount of new development going on. Expect routes to be a bit dirty until more traffic hits the routes.

Getting There

Near Smith Rock state park, NE of it. It's about an hour walk. Directions are in the Smith Rock Book. Basically, follow Burma Rd to the top of the ridge, and then follow a good trail to Tasmanian Devil, and then follow an old road downhill and south to the hidden Zoo Cliff. Can be really, really hard to find. Use the mobile app, which will show your position and a map to this location.

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
Here is a link to a MUCH better way to get to the zoo. The parking area is seasonally open due to a road closure, but access is normally easy from skull hollow. You can even bring mountain bikes and be there in 10 minutes!

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtY… Sep 1, 2015
Note that the eastern approach comes through public land as does the approach from Smith. Access to this crag through private land has not been asked for or given to the public. Land owners that live near this crag are not happy about trespassers. Do not be "That" group. The approach from the East though seasonal is the best and there are no access issues. Apr 3, 2017
To reiterate what has already been mentioned, approach via the main park (up Burma Road) or from Gray Butte on Solstice trail. DO NOT come in from the South. It crosses private land. The land owners are NOT happy about it. It's illegal to cross private land to access BLM property. Aug 14, 2017
Aubrey Miller
eugene . OR
Aubrey Miller   eugene . OR
Is there a reason people haven't added any of the routes to MP? May 28, 2018
No one mentioned a reason for 4 months, I guess we're good to start adding routes? Also hey Aubrey :) Sep 4, 2018
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
Andrew Child   Corvallis, Or
The guy that has been developing this area over the past few years is pretty against sharing it on social media and has requested that it stay off mountain project. I am not a local and I have only spoken to the developer once (briefly at that and over a year ago) so its possible that things have changed. He did mention that the area will be in the next edition of the Watts guidebook so I guess the area won't be a secret forever. Sep 4, 2018
dmPete  
I’m friends with the folks who developed the area. Their wish to leave The Zoo off social media has not changed in the recent past. I, too, have entertained the idea of adding some of these great routes to MP, but have abstained out of respect for this specific request of theirs. Once Watts publishes his next guidebook, it’ll be open season, but until then, please refrain. Thx. Sep 4, 2018
Paul Trendler
Bend, Oregon
Paul Trendler   Bend, Oregon
It's super great to hear that folks are willing to respect the culture of a crag, and the intent of the developers here. This sort of respect should extend itself over to the Cougar page, where every developer I've met has wished to keep the routes there beta/spray free. IMHO when areas and routes are put up on MP pages go against the spirit or ethic of that place, it's a bummer. Even though we have cams, you wouldn't rack em up at Elbsandstein. In the same regard, clipping new bright bolts on a hand crack in Chamonix is no biggie. Call it nuances, micro cultures, or whatever... respect the FA/Developers vision. It seems like the nice thing to do. Sep 5, 2018
I'm (along with my wife) the primary developer at the Zoo. I've put up nearly all the new lines out there.

It's been heartening to see over the years that the spray about the Zoo on the internet has stayed insular. Those who want to find out about the crag can get the info. It's not going to be very much longer until the new edition of the Watt's book is out. When it does hit the shelves, I'll add the info to MP myself. Until then, I ask for those who know about the routes to please continue to refrain from adding to MP or sharing on social media. Not every freaking crag in the world needs an internet presence. It's not like it's a secret spot or anything. Sep 24, 2018