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Redneck Shooting Gallery
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 22
votes
Routes in The Cave
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"My Wife is More Irrational Than the Square Root of Two," and Other Math Jokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Screaming Comes Across the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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All Tan Everything S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dancing Lessons For the Advanced in Age S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eating Soup With a Knife S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Immortal For a Limited Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nasty, Brutish, and Short S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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One Dollar Can S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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project S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Redneck Shooting Gallery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shorty Says S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skin in the Game S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smell of Napalm in the Morning, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sound of Perseverance, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sympathetic Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Technology of Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 44.38138, -121.11229 |
| FA: | Kevin Won (September 2012) |
| Page Views: | 414 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | wonk1132 on Dec 21, 2022 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Recommended as the first cave .12-
With monster sized moves between big holds on seriously steep terrain, Redneck Shooting Gallery is quite a departure from the typical Smith .12.
Start in the middle of the cave blasting up past four bolts shared with The Sound of Perseverance before taking a sharp right into the crux launching rightwards into a huge hueco at the lip.
There are two distinct starts to the line. The original started to the left, but nowadays it appears that most come in from the right. They are about equally as difficult. It doesn't appear that it makes much difference which way you choose given your height. Basically you are choosing between more "easier" moves on the right or fewer moves with a good sized toss on the left, so it likely comes down to your personal preference.
Likely the easiest .12- in the cave. Perhaps taller climbers might find it slightly soft at the grade.
If you are less than 5'6" this route is likely going to feel plenty hard at .12a as basically every move will be a non-trivial huck, particularly at the start.
A lot of people stick-clip the second bolt as it is really difficult to hit if you don't find the locked-in body position and blowing it with rope out would be a litmus test of belayer reaction time.
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