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Routes in The Fourth Area
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A More Wretched Hive of Scum and Villainy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Afro Ninja S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Context Matters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Espresso Love S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Exit...Stage Left S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kind of Thing You Would be Into if You Were Into That Kind of Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Maritodespotism S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Own Private Chosspile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Needs More Cowbell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overbolted Pig Pen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perverse Incentive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Put Your Hands on the Wheel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roller Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sugar Lumps S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vegetarian Except For Bacon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 44.38183, -121.11272 |
| FA: | Kevin Won, Jen Kramer (May 2010) |
| Page Views: | 304 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | wonk1132 on Dec 21, 2022 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
One of the better .10- routes at the Zoo.
Pull a sidepull boulder problem tossing to a left hand jug off the ground for full value (recommended) or grovel sheepishly in from the cave platform on the right.
The initial boulder problem is by far the hardest move on the route. If you go this way go ahead and score yourself 5.15d.
The crux at mid-height has two solutions: I like right, but most go left.
The excellent finish on silly fun holds makes up for the so-so start.
It will save some wear on your rope if you rap off this one, but it's no biggie to just lower down.
This was one of the very early routes put up during the Zoo renaissance. Back in the day, it was uber-chossy. Today, you might not shed a pebble.
Photos
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