Elevation: 2,166 ft
GPS: 44.555, -72.796 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 109,202 total · 861/month
Shared By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009 with improvements by tfarr3
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Areas/climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas

Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
* 0.9 (2.1), east side, The Workout Wall
* 1.0 (2.0), west side, Jefferson Slide, Notch North
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, ENT Gully
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Quartz Crack Face Area
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Easy Gully Area
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
* 1.3 (1.7), east side, The Playground
* 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
* 1.4 (1.6), east side, Elephant's Head Area, Ragna Rock Area
* 1.45 (1.35), west side, Blind Fate Area
* 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory
* 1.9 (1.1), east side, Blue Room, South Wall
* 2.0 (1.0), east side, Upper South Wall, Bastard
* 2.1 (0.9), west side, Driving Force Area
* , east side, Spruce Peak Crags

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

http://caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3- M1 Mod. Snow PG13
 23
Jefferson Slide
TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
WI4+ M4
 23
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 10
Blind Fate
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 28
Hidden Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3
 16
Grand Confusion
Ice
WI4
 23
Blue Room
Ice
WI3-
 31
Elephant's head gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 21
Dave's Snotsicle
Ice 2 pitches
WI2
 16
ENT Gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI4 M4
 7
Poster Child
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 7
Grand Illusion
Ice
WI4-
 6
Blue Ice Bulge
Ice
WI4+
 7
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 6
Watership Down
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 4
Origins of Intelligence in Children
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jefferson Slide 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 23
WI3- M1 Mod. Snow PG13 TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow
Ragnarock 08E - Elephant's Head…
 23
WI4+ M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Blind Fate 10W - The Blind Fate…
 10
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Hidden Gully 10W - The Blind Fate…
 28
WI3-4 Ice 3 pitches
Grand Confusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 16
WI3 Ice
Blue Room 13E - The S Wall Area
 23
WI4 Ice
Elephant's head gully 08E - Elephant's Head…
 31
WI3- Ice 2 pitches
Dave's Snotsicle 13E - The S Wall Area
 21
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
ENT Gully 03W - ENT Gully Area
 16
WI2 Ice 2 pitches
Poster Child 05W - Easy Gully Area
 7
WI4 M4 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Grand Illusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 7
WI4+ Ice
Blue Ice Bulge 10W - The Blind Fate…
 6
WI4- Ice
Dougs Route 13E - The S Wall Area
 7
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Watership Down 08E - Elephant's Head…
 6
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Origins of Intelligence in… 08E - Elephant's Head…
 4
WI4-5 Ice
More Classic Climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing »

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