Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

01E - The Workout Wall 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka The Classroom) 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2
03W - ENT Gully Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
04W - Quartz Crack Face Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
05W - Easy Gully Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
06E - The Playground Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
08E - Elephant's Head Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 3
10W - The Blind Fate Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
11W - Terror-Tory Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
13E - The South Wall Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
14E - The Upper South Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
15W - Driving Force Area 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
16E - Spruce Peak Crags 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Description [Edit]

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Areas/climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There [Edit]

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas

[Edit]
Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3- M1-2 PG13
 13
Jefferson Slide
Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
WI4+ M4
 14
Ragnarock
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 6
Blind Fate
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 16
Hidden Gully
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 13
Blue Room
Trad, Ice
WI3+
 3
ENT Gully Variation
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI2- Easy Snow
 10
Easy Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
WI3-
 12
Elephant's head gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 7
Left Ampitheater
Trad, Ice
WI3-4
 6
Dave's Snotsicle
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4 M4+
 4
Poster Child
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 5
Grand Illusion
Trad, Ice
WI4+
 3
A's Anguish (AKA golden ice chimney)
Trad, Ice
WI4-
 4
Blue Ice Bulge
Ice
WI4+
 3
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jefferson Slide 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 13
WI3- M1-2 PG13 Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
Ragnarock 08E - Elephant's Head…
 14
WI4+ M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Blind Fate 10W - The Blind Fate…
 6
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Hidden Gully 10W - The Blind Fate…
 16
WI3-4 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Blue Room 13E - The S Wall Area
 13
WI4 Trad, Ice
ENT Gully Variation 03W - ENT Gully Area
 3
WI3+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Easy Gully 05W - Easy Gully Area
 10
WI2- Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
Elephant's head gully 08E - Elephant's Head…
 12
WI3- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Left Ampitheater 15W - Driving Force Area
 7
WI3-4 Trad, Ice
Dave's Snotsicle 13E - The S Wall Area
 6
WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Poster Child 05W - Easy Gully Area
 4
WI4 M4+ Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Grand Illusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 5
WI4+ Trad, Ice
A's Anguish (AKA golden ice… 04W - Quartz Crack Fa…
 3
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Blue Ice Bulge 10W - The Blind Fate…
 4
WI4- Ice
Dougs Route 13E - The S Wall Area
 3
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

bradley white   Bend
Does the narrow no escape thin gully near Elephant Head, have a name? I got on it in 1986 and thought it would never end. Ice got shallow often and was not brittle. Same moves over and over again though. Nov 11, 2012

More About Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within Smugglers Notch Ice climbing (79)

Most Popular · Newest · Random