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Areas in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

01E - The Workout Wall 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka The Classroom) 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2
03W - ENT Gully Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
04W - Quartz Crack Face Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
05W - Easy Gully Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
06E - The Playground Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
08E - Elephant's Head Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2
10W - The Blind Fate Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
11W - Terror-Tory Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
13E - The South Wall Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
14E - The Upper South Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
15W - Driving Force Area 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
16E - Spruce Peak Crags 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Description

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas

Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
  • 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
  • 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

http://caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3- M1-2 PG13
Jefferson Slide
Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
WI4+ M4
Ragnarock
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
Blind Fate
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
Hidden Gully
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
WI3
Grand Confusion
Trad, Ice
WI3-4
Blue Room
Trad, Ice
WI3+
ENT Gully Variation
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI2-
Easy Gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
Workout Wall
Trad, TR, Ice
WI3-
Elephant's head gully
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
Left Ampitheater
Trad, Ice
WI3-4
Dave's Snotsicle
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4 M4+
Poster Child
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
Grand Illusion
Trad, Ice
WI4+
A's Anguish (AKA golden ice chimney)
Trad, Ice
Jefferson Slide 02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka The C… WI3- M1-2 PG13 Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
Ragnarock 08E - Elephant's Head Area WI4+ M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Blind Fate 10W - The Blind Fate Area WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Hidden Gully 10W - The Blind Fate Area WI3-4 Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Grand Confusion 05W - Easy Gully Area WI3 Trad, Ice
Blue Room 13E - The S Wall Area WI3-4 Trad, Ice
ENT Gully Variation 03W - ENT Gully Area WI3+ Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Easy Gully 05W - Easy Gully Area WI2- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Workout Wall 01E - The Workout Wall WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Elephant's head gully 08E - Elephant's Head Area WI3- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Left Ampitheater 15W - Driving Force Area WI3-4 Trad, Ice
Dave's Snotsicle 13E - The S Wall Area WI3-4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Poster Child 05W - Easy Gully Area WI4 M4+ Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Grand Illusion 05W - Easy Gully Area WI4+ Trad, Ice
A's Anguish (AKA golden ice… 04W - Quartz Crack Face Area WI4+ Trad, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing »

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Photos

bradley white   Bend
Does the narrow no escape thin gully near Elephant Head, have a name? I got on it in 1986 and thought it would never end. Ice got shallow often and was not brittle. Same moves over and over again though. Nov 11, 2012

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