Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft
FA: John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, 1975
Page Views: 1,192 total · 34/month
Shared By: Sam Fox on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Grand Illusion is a phenomenally fun and gorgeous route. It begins near the top of easy gully, which gives it an alpine feel and provides stellar exposure and gorgeous views of the notch.

Pitch 1/Approach gully: From near the top of easy gully follow a right trending gully (~180’) leading towards the pyramid. This gully consists of 4-5 very short steps of ice/rock leading to one final section of easy ice and some super easy 5th class climbing. We soloed this section but I would suggest roping up, it’s exposed and there’s avalanche potential.

Pitch 2/Money pitch: From the bolted belay climb/lower down a few feet to reach the thickest section of the ice flow. Climb thin 3+/4- to a detached curtain (pillar in fatter years?) and then to fatter 3/3+ ice above. There is a 40’ curtain of WI4+ that touches down on fatter years making the finish far more dramatic.

Pitch 3: From a large ledge with a huge boulder slung with tat, there’s probably another 100’ of interesting WI3+/4- that’s worth doing if you have time.

Rap with 2 ropes back down into the approach gully almost making it to Easy Gully. Don't bother trying to go back to the bolts.

Location

Grand Illusion is located inside a huge crack/cave/chimney near the top of Easy Gully.

Protection

Screws. Stubbies. I carried a rock rack and it was not useful at all.

Photos

Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington VT
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington VT
From the tat anchor on the top of pitch 2 it is easy to rap the route with a single 70m rope Nov 25, 2018