Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 300 ft|
|FA:||John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, 1975|
|Page Views:||800 total, 35/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Fox on Jan 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
DescriptionGrand Illusion is a phenomenally fun and gorgeous route. It begins near the top of easy gully, which gives it an alpine feel and provides stellar exposure and gorgeous views of the notch.
Pitch 1/Approach gully: From near the top of easy gully follow a right trending gully (~180’) leading towards the pyramid. This gully consists of 4-5 very short steps of ice/rock leading to one final section of easy ice and some super easy 5th class climbing. We soloed this section but I would suggest roping up, it’s exposed and there’s avalanche potential.
Pitch 2/Money pitch: From the bolted belay climb/lower down a few feet to reach the thickest section of the ice flow. Climb thin 3+/4- to a detached curtain (pillar in fatter years?) and then to fatter 3/3+ ice above. There is a 40’ curtain of WI4+ that touches down on fatter years making the finish far more dramatic.
Pitch 3: From a large ledge with a huge boulder slung with tat, there’s probably another 100’ of interesting WI3+/4- that’s worth doing if you have time.
Rap with 2 ropes back down into the approach gully almost making it to Easy Gully. Don't bother trying to go back to the bolts.