Type: Mixed, Ice, 125 ft (38 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob Timmer, Winter 95-96
Page Views: 2,372 total · 24/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Jan 9, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 M1 R,

Go up a cracked bulgy rock section right of Grand Contusion overhangs, no pro unless the ice is thick enough.

Once on the ledge, head up and right to the headwall to an ice flow leading up to a right facing corner. There`s a drop at a large slanting rock at it's base.

Pitch 2

There are two potential approaches. Some people head up a crack in the slabs (fixed pin 15-20' up in a small left facing corner, Jan 2024). Others go up the corner (fixed blade 5-10' up as of Jan 2024). 

Re: the cracked slabs, these are just left of the corner. Follow good hooks and edges placing gear until the fixed pin in the left facing corner and then a ledge. Step right on the ledge to gain the ice and pull around and climb ice to the top.

Re: the corner, there's likely to be nice snice to get into the corner, since the ice drips right into it, so it should be easy to get into. The corner itself will offer a slightly tipped out blade on the face and some small gear in a series of small roof cracks 2-3' above that in the corner proper. The trick will be what you do once you've stepped up and out of the corner onto the face. The are really positive holds to move on, but the gear wasn't really there and the ground is not that far away. Fear not though, it's trivially easy to step left to the cracked slabs variation and clip the pin if you decide you don't want to make moves with ground fall potential. Given the fixed pin on the left though it's not committing, so go have a look.

A bolted chain anchor was added on the rock 15ft. back from the top out edge so you don't have to use the dead tree anymore. Route can be done with a singe 60m and a single rope rap bring you back to the base. Walk climbers left to a set of bolts above the slab approach pitch and rap back down to the wide entrance to Easy Gully.

Location Suggest change

Right of the overhanging wall of Grand Contusion, starts on the ledge above the gully floor.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack to 2 inches and 4-6 screws if doing the mixed start
6-8 screws for the pure ice start.
A couple fixed pins exist on either variation.

Rap from a bolted chain anchor 15ft back from the edge with a single 60m.

Photos

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