Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Timmer, Winter 95-96
Page Views: 886 total · 25/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Jan 9, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 M1 R,
Go up a cracked bulgy rock section right of Grand Contusion overhangs, no pro unless the ice is thick enough.
Once on the ledge, head up and right to the headwall to an ice flow leading up to a right facing corner. There`s a drop at a large slanting rock at it's base.
Pitch 2
Head up the corner, there's a crack on the left with a pin in it to reach the ice flow when it doesn't reach low enough. When the ice doesn't come down enough to start on, the mixed start is a great alternative. Start just left of the corner at a vertical crack. Follow good hooks and edges placing gear to a fixed pin and then a ledge. Step right on the ledge to gain the ice and pull around and climb ice to the top.

A bolted chain anchor was added on the rock 15ft. back from the edge so you don't have to use the dead tree anymore. Route can be done with a singe 60m and a single rope rap bring you back to the base. Walk climbers left to a set of bolts above the slab approach pitch and rap back down to the wide entrance to Easy Gully.

Location

Right of the overhanging wall of Grand Contusion, starts on the ledge above the gully floor.

Protection

A light rack to 2 inches and 4-6 screws if doing the mixed start
6-8 screws for the pure ice start.
A couple fixed pins exist on either variation.

Rap from a bolted chain anchor 15ft back from the edge with a single 60m.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  WI4 M4+
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  WI4 M4+
From Tfarr:
There's a spot for a .75 just above and left of the pin (about 3 feet left) under an up and right trending fold then pulling onto the ledge where there's some tat you can get a decent #2 above the tat and sling it long for the ledge until you gain the ice. Jan 12, 2016
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
  WI4- M3
Sam Fox   Burlington, VT
  WI4- M3
Super fun if maybe a little bit chossy/flakey. Tool placements are easy and straightforward on the mixed section and there are plenty of places to get gear. A seasoned climbed could probably get away with a small rack of stoppers. Nov 18, 2018