Elephant's head gully
Avg: 3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Chet Callahan, Bob Olsen and Chuck Bond|
|Page Views:||2,350 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||Marc-Antoine Larocque on Sep 17, 2014|
|Admins:||Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
DescriptionPitch 1: Start the belay station at the first anchor on the right side of the wall. Climb straight up on easy ice (130 feet of WI 2) and make the belay station on two bolts on the far right wall.
Pitch 2: Climb the waterfall (crux: 15 feet of WI 3-/+), then climb the steeper section in the groove (35 feet of WI 2) and create a belay station on a tree. In some years the initial column of this pitch comes in steep on the left side and can give about 30 feet of WI4 climbing.
Descent: Rappel the route using the belays stations. Double ropes.
LocationLocation: Smugglers notch is located on route 108 (partly closed in winter). It's possible the get there from north or south, although faster from the south (Stowe).
Parking: Get at the end of the road and park on the side.
Approach: (From south) Hike on the road for about 20 minutes until you can see the prominent elephant's head buttress. Head toward the base for about 100 feet in the snow.