Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Bouchard & Zajchowski
Page Views: 5,750 total · 59/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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An amazing classic climb!
First pitch is just OK, pitch 2 spices it up, and the top pitch is superb exposed steep ice! There is a direct start that usually comes in thin that increases the difficulty but also the quality of the first pitch.

P1. WI3/4
Angles up and left to the obvious corner with a short mixed section on the right to a bolted anchor.

P2. M4
Ice conditions vary greatly on this pitch. It has been climbed entirely on gear and also entirely with good screws. Climb straight up to bolted anchors approx 100ft. or continue out right onto ice.

P3. WI4/5
Angle out right to finish on the main flow or, if the ice is in continue straight up the steep curtain straight to the top!


Located Just right of the Elephant's Head buttress.

Elephant's head is on the left when approaching from the Smuggler's Notch/Jefferson side just past the summit of the road and the 'Stone Hut'

First and second pitch have rap bolts installed, you can rap from the slung tree on top all the way to the first pitch anchor with double 60m ropes.


Screws and trad gear required!
Look for a single rack to #3 Camalot for the mixed pitch.
Direct start will probably need stubbies (if it's in)
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
It takes a good year but this can be done without any trad gear. I think the description makes it sound a little more mandatory-mixed than it really is. Again, in a good year.

I lead the direct first pitch and it took yellow screws for almost all of it. Only needed one stubbie. Second pitch was all ice. No gear needed and totally G-rated. Feb 21, 2017