Type: Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Bouchard & Zajchowski
Page Views: 6,839 total · 62/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

An amazing classic climb!

First pitch is just OK, pitch 2 spices it up, and the top pitch is superb exposed steep ice! There is a direct start that usually comes in thin that increases the difficulty but also the quality of the first pitch.

P1. WI3/4
Angles up and left to the obvious corner with a short mixed section on the right to a bolted anchor.

P2. M4
Ice conditions vary greatly on this pitch. It has been climbed entirely on gear and also entirely with good screws. Climb straight up to bolted anchors approx 100ft. or continue out right onto ice.

P3. WI4/5
Angle out right to finish on the main flow or, if the ice is in continue straight up the steep curtain straight to the top!

Ragnarock Direct Direct:

P1: WI4, Start in the obvious flow in the middle of the wall, 20 feet right of the standard start. Most years stubbies work but in a good year medius screws go in. Belay where you want from screws, 70 meter ropes make it all the way up to just below the steep finish.

P2: WI5, Tackle the direct, massive column on the left. In a good year this forms as a straight shot for 80 feet. Some respite can be found for the flexible but many will find this at least 5-.

Location

Located Just right of the Elephant's Head buttress.

Elephant's head is on the left when approaching from the Smuggler's Notch/Jefferson side just past the summit of the road and the 'Stone Hut'

First and second pitch have rap bolts installed, you can rap from the slung tree on top all the way to the first pitch anchor with double 60m ropes.

Protection

Screws and trad gear required!
Look for a single rack to #3 Camalot for the mixed pitch.
Direct start will probably need stubbies (if it's in)

Photos