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Areas in Allenspur

7-11 Crag 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Boundry Crag 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Main Crag 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Obscurity Crag 1 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Wave Crag 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 4,500 ft
GPS: 45.595, -110.56 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 32,207 total, 308/month
Shared By: Hermes Lynn on May 10, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

Description

Sunny, southwest facing, limestone, sport climbing. Excellent views of Paradise Valley. The rock varies from excellent black dolomite to the lighter variety which still can be very good. Climbing is possible year round here but probably best in the spring and fall. Most of the routes are 5.9-5.11 with some newer routes currently being established on the larger part of the Main Crag.

Access: Allen Spur access is fragile and much effort has gone into keeping the climbing open. Be careful, clean, and courteous. Stick to established trails and show respect for the land owners and their property. Leave no trace.
New access to Allenspur climbing Details

Getting There

5 miles south of Livingston on US 89, left on East river road and park at the fishing access. Use the new trail, now much shorter, that follows East river road and goes directly up to the boundary crag.

A few things to remember about accessing the crags:

-Park at the Carter’s Bridge fishing access, not on East River Road where the trail turns up towards the crag.
-From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag.
-Do not trespass onto any other portion of the private property.
-The trail is for foot traffic only. No motorized vehicles or bikes.
-Look for the well marked trails signs and cairns.

The new trail access is shorter than the older trail. Please abide by these guidelines!

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Allenspur

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Climbing Club Route
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Josh Was Grounded
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sully's Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
French Connection
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dam in the Rain
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake Fest
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spur Corner
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harvester
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eddie K Memorial Route
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shady Business
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancho Deluxe
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paradise
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of the Whole
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Detached Retina
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Climbing Club Route Main Crag 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Yellowstone Poseidon Advent… 7-11 Crag 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Josh Was Grounded Boundry Crag 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Sully's Route Main Crag 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
French Connection 7-11 Crag 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dam in the Rain 7-11 Crag 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Flake Fest 7-11 Crag 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Spur Corner 7-11 Crag 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Harvester Main Crag 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eddie K Memorial Route Main Crag 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Shady Business Main Crag 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rancho Deluxe 7-11 Crag 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Paradise Main Crag 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Out of the Whole Obscurity Crag 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Detached Retina Main Crag 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Weather Averages

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Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Thanks for the quick response, Hermes.

And congrats on ticking that long-standing project. Aug 27, 2014
Hermes Lynn
Helena,MT
Hermes Lynn   Helena,MT
Yes the beach ball was freed by Whit Magro and myself a number of years ago, probably 12c\d. There is another line we bolted there that is an open project in the mid 13 range. Not sure about access, technically the routes are on private land. Aug 25, 2014
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
I understand that the access/ownership issues continue on the north end of the main crag -- any updates on the legality of climbing Beach Ball, The Prow, etc.?

Has Beach Ball seen its FFA yet? Aug 24, 2014
I've read all the comments about the dogs at Allenspur. We are the landowners of the short access and welcome your dogs if you want to bring them. We just ask that you use the directed route off East River Road and try not to cross our pasture at access the trail. Be mindful and please park at Carter's Bridge. Thanks! Enjoy! Oct 18, 2013
Eric Schwartz
Big Sky, MT
Eric Schwartz   Big Sky, MT
To be honest, this whole area is some fun climbing, but the access issues are kind of ridiculous. If some land owner is going to be this much of a pain that I can go but my dog can't, or the guide book says to go the old way but maybe they are feeling nice on alternate thursdays and letting us go the short way. What a mess. I guess I will just have to steer clear until somebody who is sane owns the land. Jun 30, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
To be honest people with dogs simply shouldn't climb at this crag if they refuse to leave their dogs at home. The climbing is within feet of the owners land and he is very against having dogs on his land. You could use the old access...or you could do all of the climbing community a favor and make sure there is no issue with dogs at this crag by leaving them at home. There are MANY other places that dogs are allowed to hang out at the crag in the area so if MUST bring your dog everywhere go to those areas. Don't ruin it for the rest of us that would like to see Allenspur remain open for the foreseeable future. Jul 22, 2012
Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
Dan Bachen   Helena, MT
Climbing with dogs at this area seems a little confusing, what I have figured out so far (and I may be wrong so please correct me) is that the new shorter access is not open to dogs and is extensively signed as such. Well behaved dogs are allowed on the older and longer trail through the easement. So if you want to bring dogs to the crag you have to suck it up and use the longer access trail. Jul 21, 2012
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
the owner doesn't like dogs, leave yours at home if you want to continue to climb here. Apr 30, 2012
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
Ben Beard   Superior, AZ
I made a couple trips while visiting Gardiner. This area has maybe 40 or so bolted routes, mostly 1 pitch. Very fun limestone. Buy the Southwestern climbing guide book. Park at the fishing access and follow the signs along the east river road for access. Jul 8, 2009

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