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Routes in Main Crag

Beach Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bee Yourself S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blood and Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbing Club Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Detached Retina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eddie K S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hannukah Valentine S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Happy Boschday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermes Horror Show S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Ma, No Hands S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
One for Carl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Poacher's Pinch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Point Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pull it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shady Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Todos Santos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Erickson, Lynn
Page Views: 985 total · 9/month
Shared By: Hermes Lynn on May 10, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

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Access Issue: New access to Allenspur climbing Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Two cruxes, technical at the bottom and endurance at the top. One of the longest pitches at the Spur. Can be broken up into two pitches using chains halfway for those with shorter ropes. A 70 meter rope is ideal, but you can use a 60 to lower with some down-climbing.

Location [Suggest Change]

Route goes up the middle of the Main Wall to the right of the big roofs. Scurry around from the right to find the belay perch.

Protection [Suggest Change]

12 bolts to chains

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Sounds good- are there any routes in the guidebook you could give as a reference for the location? Aug 18, 2011
Mike Thorpe
Bozeman, MT
 
Mike Thorpe   Bozeman, MT
 
This route is fun but still pretty chossy and a little dangerous. I climbed it twice during the last week and pulled off holds both times. One was an inconsequential hand hold on top section but the other was a large foot hold at the exit of the technical crux.. I'm guessing the route will be a bit harder without this hold, but probably still in the 5.11 range. If you're going to give Paradise a try have your belayer wear a helmet and be on the lookout for falling rocks. Aug 1, 2015

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