Wave Crag Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 5,162 ft | 1,573 m |
GPS: |
45.59543, -110.55829 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 3,333 total · 33/month | |
Shared By: | Colin OBrien on Jul 17, 2016 | |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Access Issue: Allenspur Approach
Details
June 2019 Update: Per the SMCC: We contacted the landowners who posted “No Trespassing” signs at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur (where there is an easement, held by SMCC since 2005). The landowners will amend the signs to recognize that access to BLM lands is allowed through the easement. Please do your part and respect the landowners property - the easement is to access BLM lands, NOT the river. Also, the landowners have noted, and are concerned, that people are building campfires in Crystal Cave. It is dry and windy at Allenspur and an escaped campfire would be nothing but trouble. Please do not build fires, and if you see campfire rings, please make sure the fire is out cold and then scatter the rocks to discourage future fires.
May 2019 Update: “No Trespassing” signs have recently been posted at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur. To clarify, the easement that controls that access (held by SMCC since 2005) is still in place. The signs are discouraging climbers and hikers from their rightful use of the trail that accesses public BLM land.
Another access exists to the south. It is controlled by a different landowner that allows us the privilege of crossing their land. They have requested that people not bring dogs across their property. If you have been bringing your dog through that property, please stop. Right now, it is imperative that we respect the lawful requests of landowners.
May 2019 Update: “No Trespassing” signs have recently been posted at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur. To clarify, the easement that controls that access (held by SMCC since 2005) is still in place. The signs are discouraging climbers and hikers from their rightful use of the trail that accesses public BLM land.
Another access exists to the south. It is controlled by a different landowner that allows us the privilege of crossing their land. They have requested that people not bring dogs across their property. If you have been bringing your dog through that property, please stop. Right now, it is imperative that we respect the lawful requests of landowners.
Description
This small crag hosts a few quality routes that could benefit from more cleaning. With walls that face West and South, expect a lot of sun. The approach is long, circuitous, and seems a little forgotten. Don't expect to see many crowds, but this is a fun wall when the Allenspur standbys are getting a little tired.
Getting There
The approach is tough. The most direct approach follows the old trail, which leaves from the north end of the fishing access. Follow switchbacks until the trail tracks south, and then locate yourself above the Main Wall. Walk until you see the obvious crag with cleaner looking rock.
The walls can be approached from the new access as well. Walk to the Borderline crag, and continue past the Main Wall. Wrap around the main wall until you can link up with the old trails mentioned above. This might save time.
Scrambling up between the Main Wall and Borderline is a mess - lots of loose scree and dirt that will rain down on other climbs. Be very careful if you choose to do so. It's easy to get lost, and tracking too far south will have you raining blocks down on climbs like Rancho Deluxe or Flake Fest.
As of 2016, this crag could use a better approach trail.
The walls can be approached from the new access as well. Walk to the Borderline crag, and continue past the Main Wall. Wrap around the main wall until you can link up with the old trails mentioned above. This might save time.
Scrambling up between the Main Wall and Borderline is a mess - lots of loose scree and dirt that will rain down on other climbs. Be very careful if you choose to do so. It's easy to get lost, and tracking too far south will have you raining blocks down on climbs like Rancho Deluxe or Flake Fest.
As of 2016, this crag could use a better approach trail.
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