Elevation: 5,005 ft
GPS: 45.618, -110.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 240,017 total · 2,253/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 7, 2012
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.

Getting There

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.

239 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 17
Green Gully
Ice
V7 7A+
 11
Gigarete
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Climbing Club Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Righteous are the Brave
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Ladyfingers
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Sully's Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
French Connection
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Dam the Rain
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
Flake Fest
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Bee Yourself
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Montana Centennial Route
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 50
Rancho Deluxe
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Out of the Whole
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Gully Pine Creek
 17
WI3+ Ice
Gigarete Yankee Jim > … > Gigarete Area > Gigarete Boulder
 11
V7 7A+ Boulder
Climbing Club Route Allenspur > Main Crag
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Righteous are the Brave Mill Creek > Ladyfingers Buttress
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ladyfingers Mill Creek > Ladyfingers Buttress
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yellowstone Poseidon Advent… Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sully's Route Allenspur > Main Crag
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
French Connection Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dam the Rain Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Flake Fest Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 100
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet Mill Creek > Thunderbolt Buttress
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bee Yourself Allenspur > Main Crag
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Montana Centennial Route Cowen Massif
 30
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Rancho Deluxe Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 50
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Out of the Whole Allenspur > Obscurity Crag
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Valley »

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