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Areas in Paradise Valley

Allenspur 3 / 55 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58
Cowen Cirque 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Mile 13 Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Mill Creek 11 / 13 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Pine Creek 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Yankee Jim 0 / 0 / 1 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Description

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.

Getting There

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.

140 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 6
Green Gully
Ice
V7 7A+
 4
Montana's Most Wanted
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Gigarete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Skywalker
Boulder
V8 7B
 4
Mrs. Leslie
Boulder
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 13
Climbing Club Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Ladyfingers
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Sully's Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Dam in the Rain
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 52
Flake Fest
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Montana Centennial Route
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Rancho Deluxe
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Out of the Whole
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Gully Pine Creek
 6
WI3+ Ice
Montana's Most Wanted Yankee Jim > Campground Boulders
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Gigarete Yankee Jim > Locomotive Boulders
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
Skywalker Yankee Jim > Jedi Boulders
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Mrs. Leslie Yankee Jim > Locomotive Boulders
 4
V8 7B Boulder
Climbing Club Route Allenspur > Main Crag
 13
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Ladyfingers Mill Creek > Ladyfingers Buttress
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yellowstone Poseidon Advent… Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sully's Route Allenspur > Main Crag
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Dam in the Rain Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet Mill Creek > Thunderbolt Buttress
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Flake Fest Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 52
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Montana Centennial Route Cowen Cirque
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Rancho Deluxe Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Out of the Whole Allenspur > Obscurity Crag
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Valley »

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