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Elevation: 5,005 ft 1,526 m
GPS: 45.618, -110.5672
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Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 7, 2012
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description Suggest change

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.

Getting There Suggest change

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.

310 Total Climbs

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Location: Paradise Valley Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 23
Green Gully
Ice
V7 7A+
 16
Montana's Most Wanted
Boulder
V7 7A+
 17
Gigarete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 6
Skywalker
Boulder
V7 7A+
 15
Carpenter’s Crack
Boulder
V8 7B
 7
Mr. Leslie
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Ladyfingers
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Sully's Route
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 130
Flake Fest
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Bee Yourself
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 43
Montana Centennial Route
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
Rancho Deluxe
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Out of the Whole
Sport, TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 6
Smoking Monk
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Gully Pine Creek
 23
WI3+ Ice
Montana's Most Wanted Yankee Jim > Campground Boul… > Most Wanted Boulder
 16
V7 7A+ Boulder
Gigarete Yankee Jim > … > Gigarete Area > Gigarete Boulder
 17
V7 7A+ Boulder
Skywalker Yankee Jim > Jedi Boulders
 6
V7 7A+ Boulder
Carpenter’s Crack Yankee Jim > … > Gigarete Area > High Output Boulder
 15
V7 7A+ Boulder
Mr. Leslie Yankee Jim > … > Gigarete Area > Gigarete Boulder
 7
V8 7B Boulder
Ladyfingers Mill Creek > Ladyfingers Buttress
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sully's Route Allenspur > Main Crag
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet Mill Creek > Thunderbolt Buttress
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flake Fest Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 130
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bee Yourself Allenspur > Main Crag
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Montana Centennial Route Cowen Massif
 43
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Rancho Deluxe Allenspur > 7-11 Crag
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Out of the Whole Allenspur > Obscurity Crag
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Smoking Monk Mill Creek > Warm-Up Wall
 6
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Valley »

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