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Routes in 7-11 Crag

Commie Bastards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dam in the Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Fest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
French Connection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gobis in the Dark S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Look Around S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Bullet to Many S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick Tease S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rancho Deluxe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancho Pequeno S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Stuff S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spur Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,994 total, 53/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Apr 7, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

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43 Opinions

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New access to Allenspur climbing Details

Description

A fantastic route that goes up one of the most classic flakes and splitters out at Allenspur. All bolted due to the flakes somewhat delicate nature. No individual move is that difficult but it is one of the more sustained routes out here. Go send it!

Location

If taking the lower approach this is the climb that will be at the end of the trail.

Protection

Bolts to 3 bolt anchor

Photos

Typical start is on the blocks to the left, the direct start below the 1st bolt is mid-low 5.11. A 3 bolt variation splits up and right when flake fest moves left and is sharp 5.12. Jun 20, 2017
Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a/b
Evan Schock   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a/b
the infamous block fell off last summer, the block that offered the ledge for the mantle type move once you are topping out the layback crack off the arete. this ledge is now 2 feet lower and offers an amazing jug instead of a flat ledge that ive watched so many people try to awkwardly mantle and whip. seems easier now and not run out at all for that move.

this microwave size block was sitting there for months and months and it appears some dingus trundled it down the hill, pretty sad, that thing is memorable. Apr 17, 2017
Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
Truly awesome route. Surprisingly sturdy flakes all around. Have fun fighting the foot jams and enjoying the view all the way up. I would do this route every time I'm in the area just for the kick. May 21, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Might be my favorite sport climb in Montana at the moment. Just well-spaced enough on the bolting to get the heart going, and while sustained there isn't a non-positive hold on the whole thing. Jun 24, 2014
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
 
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
 
Nick Stayner - If this route was not safe on gear then yes i would be guilty of 'spraying'.

Fact is this is Montana and if reasonable gear is present then there shouldn't be a bolt. This has been a major facet of Montana climbing ethics since the beginning of climbing in our great state. Certainly these ethics are being more and more ignored as our sport grows in popularity. By no means am I against clipping bolts, just not pointless bolts.

When I first saw this line I didn't understand why it was bolted to the extent it is. Commenting that this route goes on gear is not 'spraying'; it's simply adding information to the data base.

As a person who usually contributes positively to Mountain Project I find your comment to be in poor taste.

Again I do apologize for the stuck nut. That is an eyesore and worse than a bolt. Next time I'm back in this area I'll try my best to remove it as cleanly as possible.

Cheers Jun 14, 2014
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
...but quite possibly the first to spray about it! Jan 2, 2014
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
 
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
 
certainly an interesting ethical debate. Using natural gear on a sport climb. Yet I agree that there is one placement within the 'somewhat delicate' flake. My apologize for fixing an eyesore but I am by no means the first person to do these lines on gear. Dec 22, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
I think the reason it was bolted was to protect the somewhat delicate nature of the flake. If you fall and pull the flake down there are going to be several angry locals after your head for ruining one of the best climbs in the area. Dec 15, 2013
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
 
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
 
By no means an unreasonable trad line. Gear is good but spaced in a few areas. Fixed a nut at the 3rd bolt.

If on gear a rack to 3" is sufficient Oct 26, 2013