Main Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Crag
|Beach Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Blood and Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Climbing Club Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Cold Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Detached Retina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Double Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Eddie K Memorial Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hannukah Valentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Happy Boschday S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Harvester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hermes Horror Show S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Look Ma, No Hands S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|One for Carl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Poacher's Pinch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Point Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pull it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Shady Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sully's Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Todos Santos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|GPS:||45.596, -110.56 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||8,860 total, 128/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Mar 24, 2012|
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DescriptionHome to about twenty sport routes, the Main Crag is one of the more heavily traveled areas at Allenspur and a great spot to get started. A crag with a high concentration of routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range, you'll find a large variety of climbing, mostly under 5.11, with a few 5.12's. A full set of draws is recommended as are a couple of runners. Most routes require on average, about ten draws.
A nice 20 minute approach gets you to this crag, enjoy morning shade and afternoon sun. A great area with classic routes and quality lines. Beware of loose rock!
New access to Allenspur climbing Details
June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.
For more info and photos:
For more info and photos:
Getting ThereFrom the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag. Once there, follow the trail left (aiming north) and walk for about three hundred feet. The Main Crag is the next crag you encounter.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season