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Routes in Main Crag

Beach Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood and Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbing Club Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cold Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Detached Retina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eddie K Memorial Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hannukah Valentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Boschday S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermes Horror Show S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Ma, No Hands S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
One for Carl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Poacher's Pinch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Point Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pull it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shady Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Todos Santos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lynn, Heerdt
Page Views: 2,269 total, 22/month
Shared By: Hermes Lynn on May 29, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

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New access to Allenspur climbing Details

Description

P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang.

P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left.

Location

The route begins just behind the nice shady juniper. Rappel descent.

Protection

8 bolts shares anchor with the route Todos.

Photos

Sarah-Min Donahue
Mammoth Lakes
Sarah-Min Donahue   Mammoth Lakes
Just did this climb, I was high for a week! One of the best climbs at the Spur. May 19, 2013
kozzybear406
Livingston, MT
  5.10a
kozzybear406   Livingston, MT
  5.10a
Rancho is great, but I think to combine both pitches is THE climb to do here. Nov 18, 2012
Sam Stephens  
 
One of the absolute best at Allenspur. Jul 22, 2011
Hermes Lynn
Helena,MT
 
Hermes Lynn   Helena,MT
 
I finished bolting the second pitch with Josh Apple. The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left. Oct 11, 2010
Jeff J
Bozeman
Jeff J   Bozeman
Great route. One of the best at Allenspure, I was on this route with in a week of the FA, since then it has become very clean and a real joy to climb. It looks like there is more to come; up right of Beach break there is new bolt that heads just above the large roof, look like a promising second pitch in the making. Sep 22, 2010
Bud Martin
Bozeman, MT
 
Bud Martin   Bozeman, MT
 
Very fun route, the jugs in the bulge make it a hero climb! Sep 21, 2010