Elevation: 8,200 ft
GPS: 35.82, -106.518 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 106,805 total · 703/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

This area is upstream from Las Conchas and is very similar in look and feel. Fun, varied climbing next to the Jemez River.

Getting There

Upper East Fork is towards the Valles Grande from the Las Conchas climbing area, about half a mile past mile marker 37 (“Climbing Area 37”). Park at the paved parking area next to the large rock wall that lies just off the road. This is the parking area for Trail 121.

From the parking area, go through the fence and immediately turn left to hike across a rock slab to a solid trail paralleling the highway before going up and over the ridge and down to the river.

At the river, most will go downstream (left) a hundred yards towards the obvious walls and cross the river on a good, small wooden bridge and go left. Approach time from the parking lot to the bridge is about fifteen minutes. Just after the bridge crossing, the first major formation you'll reach is the Bull Horn.
Continue about twenty yards downstream of the Bull Horn to reach the Monster Wall. The climbing area, and stream, remain unimpacted by the Las Conchas fire, thankfully. Likely thanks in large part to the fire crews that created this new trail as a fire break.

Alternatively, after passing through the fence by the parking area, continue North on main trail until you reach a clearing and meadow on your left (west). Follow cairns, logs, and bull dozer track west along the southern most drainage of the meadow. The trail will gain the ridgeline that, after heading southwest, will intersect the standard approach trail descending into the canyon and the river.

Spaghetti Western Wall is another quarter mile downstream from the Monster Wall, on the same side of the river. You'll likely get a bit wet crossing the stream twice to get down to Spaghetti Western.

84 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper East Fork (UEF)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Blue Shadows
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Cookie Monster
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 53
Pale Rider
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Today We Climb...Tomorrow We Die!
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 83
Demanda
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Ogopogo
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Powder Monkey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Cowboy Up
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
Invisible Pink Unicorn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Smart Cowboy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 27
Bareback
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 85
Werepig
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
Pegasus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 34
Chupacabra
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 22
Godzilla Meets Bambi
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Blue Shadows Spaghetti Western Wall
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cookie Monster Monster Wall
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pale Rider Spaghetti Western Wall
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Today We Climb...Tomorrow W… Spaghetti Western Wall
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Demanda Spaghetti Western Wall
 83
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Ogopogo Monster Wall
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Powder Monkey Spaghetti Western Wall
 35
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cowboy Up Spaghetti Western Wall
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Invisible Pink Unicorn Wheel of Karma
 34
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Smart Cowboy Spaghetti Western Wall
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bareback Spaghetti Western Wall
 27
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Werepig Monster Wall
 85
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pegasus Monster Wall
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Chupacabra Monster Wall
 34
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Godzilla Meets Bambi Monster Wall
 22
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper East Fork (UEF) »

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