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Areas in Upper East Fork (UEF)

Amphitheater, The 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Brier Patch (Creek Wall) 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Bull Horn, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cragacito 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Easy Slab 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Monster Wall 4 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Rabbit Rock 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Spaghetti Western Wall 2 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
TTB 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wheel of Karma 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This area is upstream from Las Conchas and is very similar in look and feel. Fun, varied climbing next to the Jemez River.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Upper East Fork is towards the Valles Grande from the Las Conchas climbing area, about half a mile past mile marker 37 (“Climbing Area 37”). Park at the paved parking area next to the large rock wall that lies just off the road. This is the parking area for Trail 121.

From the parking area, go through the fence and immediately turn left to hike across a rock slab to a solid trail paralleling the highway before going up and over the ridge and down to the river.

At the river, most will go downstream (left) a hundred yards towards the obvious walls and cross the river on a good, small wooden bridge and go left. Approach time from the parking lot to the bridge is about fifteen minutes. Just after the bridge crossing, the first major formation you'll reach is the Bull Horn.
Continue about twenty yards downstream of the Bull Horn to reach the Monster Wall. The climbing area, and stream, remain unimpacted by the Las Conchas fire, thankfully. Likely thanks in large part to the fire crews that created this new trail as a fire break.

Alternatively, after passing through the fence by the parking area, continue North on main trail until you reach a clearing and meadow on your left (west). Follow cairns, logs, and bull dozer track west along the southern most drainage of the meadow. The trail will gain the ridgeline that, after heading southwest, will intersect the standard approach trail descending into the canyon and the river.

Spaghetti Western Wall is another quarter mile downstream from the Monster Wall, on the same side of the river. You'll likely get a bit wet crossing the stream twice to get down to Spaghetti Western.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper East Fork (UEF)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Cookie Monster
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Pale Rider
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Today We Climb...Tomorrow We Die!
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 62
Demanda
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Ogopogo
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Powder Monkey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Cowboy Up
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Invisible Pink Unicorn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Smart Cowboy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Bareback
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
Werepig
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Code of the West
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
Pegasus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
Chupacabra
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Godzilla Meets Bambi
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cookie Monster Monster Wall
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pale Rider Spaghetti Western Wall
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Today We Climb...Tomorrow W… Spaghetti Western Wall
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Demanda Spaghetti Western Wall
 62
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Ogopogo Monster Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Powder Monkey Spaghetti Western Wall
 29
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cowboy Up Spaghetti Western Wall
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Invisible Pink Unicorn Wheel of Karma
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Smart Cowboy Spaghetti Western Wall
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bareback Spaghetti Western Wall
 17
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Werepig Monster Wall
 55
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Code of the West Spaghetti Western Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Pegasus Monster Wall
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Chupacabra Monster Wall
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Godzilla Meets Bambi Monster Wall
 15
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper East Fork (UEF) »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This is a pretty new area, and many of these routes have only been climbed a few times. The rock is also pretty soft, so BE CAREFUL. It can and will break. Some of the routes are still a little dirty as well (some will likely always be), so if be prepared for that. Please use the trails as much as possible to keep the grass from getting demolished. Mar 22, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Josh
Thanks for posting this, sometime last spring or summer a topo of the area mysterioously showed up at Stone Age, it showed all the routes but did not give directions at all. Mar 22, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Most all of the routes face south so it can get pretty warm here. Spring, fall and summer nights are the best climbing times.

The rock and moves on many of the routes at UEF are best described as tricky. I've climbed here with many different folks and get mixed reviews about sandbagged ratings, tricky moves, sneaky technique and sketchy rock. To some degree I can agree with all of those descriptions. It's gritty and interesting rock and it's best to go into with the expectation of it being tough and perhaps a bit sketchy. But the setting is amazing along the river and you don't hear the roar of motorcycles or jake brakes from trucks and you wont see the local church group TRing on the same four routes all day.

Enjoy the setting and climb lightly. If that jug looks like it could come off, despite the FA's best attempts to clean it, it probably could. Mar 22, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
What happened to the Overview map? It seems to be MIA.

The climbing here was fun. The rock is still a little grainy, so expect pebbles to drop off if you are dragging your foot on the wall or trying to use unchalked holds. I did not really find the grades sandbagged, but maybe a little inconsistent, which makes sense, fewer opinions to come to a consensus at this point. Aug 2, 2009
My first day at UEF. Based on some comments on this site and experiences with other sprayed-up new crags I was expecting overrated choss, but boy was I wrong! We found generally high quality rock with interesting and varied features and sustained difficulty. Climbs really well! The setting is idyllic. This will be on my short list of day-trip crags, particularly for afternoons in the warmer months. May 30, 2010
Post fire access has changed the approach, which I think is now more aesthetic as you leave the noise of the highway more immediately. After passing through the fence continue North on main trail until you reach a clearing and meadow on your left (west). Follow carins, logs, and bull dozer track west along the southern most drainage of the meadow. The trail will gain the ridgeline that after heading southwest will intersect the old approach trail descending into the canyon. Not sure if it is any longer than before. The climbing area and stream remain unimpacted by the fire. Likely thanks in large part to the fire crews that created this new trail as a fire break. Aug 15, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Jason Halladay wrote:Unfortunately, as of 9/7/2011 the USFS has closed the trailhead that had served as the access to UEF since the Las Conchas Fire. Signs and red ribbon are now posted at the trailhead/parking area.
LeeAB wrote:That is interesting since it was not there over Labor Day weekend. Wonder what changed their minds?
As I understand it the Jemez Ranger District has a relatively new ranger. The new ranger had talked with a few friends of mine a few weeks ago at the parking area for UEF. He was very friendly and couldn't explain why that particular trail was open and said that if they deemed it necessary to close it, it would be ribboned off. The trail did pass through a very short burned section but nothing that I would personally consider hazardous. Certainly the area along the river, including the walls we climb on, is completely unscathed so I question the decision to close the trail and hope that it reopens soon. Sep 8, 2011
Shane Sully
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Shane Sully   Albuquerque, New Mexico
Hello. So after a few trips to UEF, I had no climbing partners and I decided to bring some pads down and clean/develop the boulder that sits down stream in the middle of the stream. I don't believe it had been climbed I found it quite dirty with moss and ancient cobwebs. From a certain angle the piece of rock looks like the heads from the stone carvings of Easter Island, thus the name Easter Island boulder. Took me half a day to scrub it down clean and find holds. As far as I know i am the first to climb it, but it is in a popular area so potential for others to have come before me is high. Any info would be cool. Here is a little video I made about it. PEACE AND LOVE FRIENDS.

youtube.com/watch?v=2fgwdPd…


All ratings subject to critique, I had no idea lol, generally my ratings are easy(v1-v4), medium(v5-v7) and hard(v8-v10). May 22, 2013
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
Shane, I saw the chalk on this the other day, psyched to see someone else bouldering out there! Its called the Mojito boulder, owing to the mint that grows there during the summer. Its been climbed a bunch, in spite of the fact that its very dirty still!!

We aim to give this thing a deep clean later in the summer. PM me if you wanna help out!

Hike 10 mins upstream. On the left you will see a sick overhang, its called the Saloon. Go play :) Currently there are problems V0-6 and there are two double digit projects. Hopefully by the end of summer this will all be cleaned and climbed out sufficiently for us to write a little guide on MP. May 22, 2013
Shane Sully
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Shane Sully   Albuquerque, New Mexico
NICE! see I knew it was too nice of a boulder to have not been climbed haha. Mojito is a fitting name. Beautiful little spot to boulder. May 23, 2013
Gnar routes but somebody needs to cut the damn grass... Jul 10, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Ryan Frieberts wrote:Gnar routes but somebody needs to cut the damn grass...
Ha, hilarious. This is national forest, not a golf course. :-) Jul 11, 2017

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