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Routes in Monster Wall

Bandersnatch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caliban S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Monster S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cyclops S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Godzilla Meets Bambi S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grendal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippalectryon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jeckyll and Hyde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kraken T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monster Slayer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogopogo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pegasus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Predator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scream Queen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scuttlebutt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Puft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swamp Thing T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Werepig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 8,463 ft
GPS: 35.82, -106.517 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 12,991 total, 122/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

The Monster Wall proper is steep, with some good harder routes in the middle and flanked on the sides with easier routes.

See the (with climbs #1&2 being on The Bull Horn - the buttress immediately right of Monster Wall)

Getting There

Follow the approach directions for UEF. Once you're at the stream after dropping down into the valley from the ridge, head downstream, cross the stream on a nice footbridge, and continue downstream for about 50 yards. The Bull Horn is the first major wall you'll encounter. Just beyond that is the Monster Wall.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Monster Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Monster Wall »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
@ Jeffrey Hyman. Have your Gri Gri 1, Petzl gloves, and BD locker. 505-412-9605. Call or text. May 23, 2015
henrik  
Lost gear!
I was up at monster wall today, sunday july 5th. When packing up we found a belay device in the cookie monster area. There was a group of climbers there earlier and one of the guys name was Amo. If anyone knows him could you check with him if it's his. You can email me at internet@henriksandin.se.
If you are the actual owner of the belay device you should email me and we'll try to sort out getting it back to you.
Cheers
Henrik Jul 5, 2010
Ken, George and I went up and climbed the route again last night (It's better than I remembered, which is always a nice surprise). I checked all the bolts, and the loose hanger was the fault of my poor choice of placement. It was resting on a sharp point of rock, which must have busted at some point (maybe when you fell). I tightened it and that may not happen again, but I really need to go back with a hammer and flatten the rock behind the hanger so it seats properly against the rock. I'll do that next week. All the others were fine. There are some hidden jugs (one just below the second bolt, and others on the face to the right of the arete), so I bet you just missed those. A little traffic will make it more obvious. Aug 14, 2009
Wow I must have been blown after excrementally weighted as I thought it was harder than that, will have to try it again. Very sustained 10b as I made several dynamic slaps through the second bolt then encountered difficult arete move to the forth. I am getting anxious to try again fresh. Josh this is a wortwhile addition! Aug 10, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
If it's the route I'm thinking of (arete-ish left of Grendal), I thought it was 5.10 but I remember falling too so I feel your pain. Aug 10, 2009
Seemed loose as I wiggled it around but I may have been shaking at that point. It is a worthy line (two stars) but I hope harder than 10....at least 11a or I am really getting weak. Aug 10, 2009
The route left of Grendal has 3.5" Powers SS wedge bolts. I'm sorry to hear that two of the nuts were loose--as Jason said, we've been trying to check and re-tighten nuts because it does seem to be a bit of a pattern out there. I've yet to see a stud that seems loose, and I have seen the same hanger issue with a Powers (Rawl) 5 piece, so I don't think it's the bolts (I sure hope it's not, though if it is, we need to know). I've also not seen anything loose after I re-tightened, but I haven't been up there as much this summer as last year.

Let's keep the thread going, and if folks notice other anomalies or patterns, we'll need to decide if something should be done. In the mean time, Jason and I will continue to check and re-tighten when we're out there. Aug 10, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I can definitely speak for the bolts I've put in and am quite sure the other routes have the same type of bolts--mostly 3 inch wedge (not five piece sleeve) bolts that are 3/8". I've noticed a particular issue that seems to be prevalent at UEF...the surface of the rock is quite gritty and if the area where the bolt is placed isn't first cleaned of the surface grit at time of installation, the grit breaks down and the hanger/nuts loosen pretty quickly. The hangers require a "break-in" period. Josh and I have been taking a wrench with us when we go to climb to re-tighten loose nuts after this break-in period.

I have not, however, noticed any loose studs which would indeed be a safety issue. I'll take a look at the bolts on this route next time I'm up there. Aug 10, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit. Aug 9, 2009
New route left of Grendal. Any info? Took a big whipper between the third and fourth bolts as I found myself in a position without a free hand while staring at the bolt. The third bolt was lose to begin with but it held the fall. We encountered several other bolts of the same quality that seem loose beyond just a loose nut. What kind of bolts are being used on these new lines, studs or rawl? Aug 9, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
:-) I think it's OK--both walls boast only hard routes with cool names. Truce brother? Mar 27, 2009
Mike Howard    
Monster Wall ? I don't know, I am sensing a little copyright battle (ours is dated-Dec 2006)! Cease and desist! Mar 26, 2009

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