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Routes in Monster Wall

Bandersnatch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caliban S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Monster S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cyclops S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Godzilla Meets Bambi S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grendal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippalectryon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jeckyll and Hyde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kraken T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monster Slayer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogopogo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pegasus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Predator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scream Queen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scuttlebutt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Puft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swamp Thing T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Werepig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 1,838 total, 17/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

A sweet route for all the sugar-fiends out there. There is a low crux at the second bolt, and then a second crux clipping the anchors.

Location

Second route down stream from the chimney at the end of Monster Wall.

Protection

QDs

Photos

Dylan Boyle  
 
Bolting was just fine, though to keep it 5.8 you had to move a bit left and right of the bolt line at times. Super fun moderate route. Jul 20, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.8+
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.8+
Wonderful moderate route, with very well thought out bolt placements right where they should be for the climbing (and in bomber rock) I had an ear to ear grin on this route the whole climb. Great movement.

I dont think the route wanders much unless you choose to - the 5.8 climbing all seems well within the bolt line. Love this thing! Jul 16, 2017
Dom1394
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Dom1394   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
The bolting is just fine on this route... ! Jun 9, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
JeremyA wrote:...Crappy bolting...


There's a difference between complaining and constructive criticism. Complaining is useless while constructive criticism is helpful and has a high probability of ensuring corrective action is taken. This comment is more of the former. The climbers that took the time, effort and expense to put in a route for all of us to climb are nice guys who are very interested in safety and climbers enjoying the routes.
If you can be more specific about which bolt(s) you found to be HORRIBLY placed, I'm confident the FA guys will take that into consideration. I know Josh has personally moved bolts on other routes he has put up after hearing feedback from others. He allowed me to add an additional bolt and chain to the anchor on Pegasus after I got unnecessarily concerned about the anchor. He was not offended or bothered by my suggestion as he has the utmost respect for the safety of us climbers at UEF.

Also, I'm pretty sure this line was TRed before being bolted as the majority of routes at UEF have been.

Placing bolts isn't as easy as it may seem. Many considerations must be taken into account and the best rock for the bolt isn't always right inline with the climbing. This is especially true at UEF given the rock quality. Jul 12, 2010
This climb wanders a lot, but has solid holds if you are willing to move around. Goes waaaay to the left above the first bolt, but comes back for a crux at the second bolt. Look for the holds, they are there! Oct 4, 2009
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
5.8+
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
5.8+
Excellent moderate route. Long and varied climbing. Thought clipping the anchors was a bit difficult for 5.8. Don't miss the hidden pocket left of the anchors which makes life easier at the top. May 29, 2009