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Routes in Spaghetti Western Wall

Bareback S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Shadows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Sunglasses S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheap Whiskey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code of the West T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cowboy Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowboy Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demanda S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Helper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ned Flies a Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pale Rider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pitch Fork S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Monkey Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reprimanda S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schadenfreude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smart Cowboy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soy Beefcake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Today We Climb...Tomorrow We Die! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Gun Show S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Grit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yosemite Sand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Aaron Miller, Josh Smith, James Hunter
Page Views: 1,123 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The crack that splits the middle of the Spaghetti Western Wall. One of the best hard crack lines around. A bolt protects the first crux and keeps you off a ledge, and a couple more help you through the slab to the rest of the crack. Don't stop at the Cowboy Up anchors; keep going to the second set at the top.

Location

Towards the left side of the Spaghetti Western Wall.

Protection

Gear to #2 and three bolts. Heavy on the finger sizes. Anchors.

Photos

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Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
TR'd this (to the Cowboy up anchors), too see whether a lead attempt would be reasonable for me. Not so. While I think the 11d is spot on, the climb was much more sustained then I thought. There is pretty much no crack technique required (excluding the last part to the actual anchors of the route) and I agree with Daniel that it feels like a harder version of Cowboy up. I found it so sustained that I think I would not have been able to place a single piece after the first bolt. I even had a very hard time un-clipping the draws while TRing. Apr 22, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11d
I second Daniel's gear suggestion of smaller-than-fingers gear. In addition to a purple link cam I was very happy to have two .3 BD cams, a red C3 and a green C3. It's a fun, bouldery route protected by some gear and the two bolts protect the cruxes well. Nice and unique. Sep 16, 2012
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
Fun climbing on good rock, kind of like a harder version of Cowboy Up. Protects well, though the pro takes a bit of thought to place. Though the rack beta suggests to go heavy on the finger sizes, I was happy to have more fingertip-sized pro and a good selection of nuts. Aug 29, 2011