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Routes in Monster Wall

Bandersnatch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caliban S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Monster S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cyclops S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Godzilla Meets Bambi S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grendal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippalectryon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jeckyll and Hyde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kraken T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monster Slayer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogopogo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pegasus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Predator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scream Queen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scuttlebutt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Puft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swamp Thing T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Werepig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Josh Smith, James Hunter
Page Views: 2,388 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained with some thin moves and potential for big safe air up high.

Intricate and bouldery moves past the first two bolts lead to a great jug for the third bolt clip. Climbing right of the bolt line for a couple more bolts, a sneaky mono undercling can be used to get the small ledge for the fourth bolt clip. Hard moves using a creaky flake (don't pull too hard) lead to a strenuous fifth clip. Take a nice, long no-hands rest on the generous ledge and crank up and left of the bolt line on a couple sloper holds for hands and feet past the sixth and seventh bolts. Intricate moves get you back to the right and up to the anchors on good crimps.

Location

Just left of the Mighty Mouse crack.

Protection

8 bolts to a chains equipped with lowering carabiners.

Photos

Jean  
beware the crumbling undercling between the 4th and 5th bolt, it probably won't be there for too long. Jun 25, 2012
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Agreed, I thought the crux was the long, hard sequence between bolts two and three, though the pumpy climbing (and hard 5th clip) just before the rest might be the redpoint crux. It's also hard enough near the top that you might take a heartbreaking whipper with the chains in sight!

8 bolts to chains equipped with lowering carabiners (don't steal these!). Jul 31, 2010
HoseBeats
  5.12b
HoseBeats  
  5.12b
A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top. Apr 16, 2009