Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Monster Wall

Bandersnatch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caliban S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cookie Monster S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cyclops S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Godzilla Meets Bambi S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grendal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippalectryon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jeckyll and Hyde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kraken T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monster Slayer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ogopogo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pegasus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Predator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scream Queen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scuttlebutt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Puft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swamp Thing T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Werepig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Equipped by Josh Smith, FA Lee Brinckerhoff
Page Views: 2,867 total, 34/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 3, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Hardish start to a great rest followed by a long difficult boulder problem up the arete. Strangely left leg intensive.

Thuggish climbing out the low roof to a great rest at the break. Pull out the bulge above with big moves on pretty good holds to a clip. Slap up the arete above on some really fun holds skipping a clip on the way to an edge on the arete. Make the clip and bust the last couple of hard moves up and left to a juggy horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top of the route.

This route can also be climbed on THIN holds to the left of the bolt line at the cost of a bit more skin.

Location

Just to the right of Godzilla Meets Bambi, the second route from the left on the main section of cliff.

Protection

11 bolts to a chain anchor with fixed biners.
JWatt
5.13c
JWatt  
5.13c
Nice work man! And an interesting sequence. Little gutted those hangers are gone now though.. those were nice :) Jul 15, 2015
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
vimeo.com/133495253 Jul 15, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13c
With a kneebar pad I was able to dumb down the first crux and make the move to the first right hand pocket much easier. Low end 13c? This time of year the upper crux gets sun until after 5:00. Oct 25, 2014
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest. May 10, 2011
Heath Bailey
  5.13c
Heath Bailey  
  5.13c
Doneski. Second ascent went on Mother's Day (unless there was another before).

Fun & flowing 5.12 b/c moves in the low roof lead to a great rest at the ledge. A v8ish compression crux low on the arete takes you to the v6/7 redpoint crux after a clip, and then scramble for the anchors = 5.13c. A proper mix of power and technique will see you through these hard moves.

Props to Josh Smith for the vision, Lee AB for the FA back in the winter, and to all the mothers out there!

Squeezing and slapping the arete makes for just a great route. The face variation on or left of the bolt line looks plausible and painful for the uber-crimper! May 9, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Thanks guys.
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts. Dec 13, 2010
Nice job, Lee! Dec 12, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line. Dec 3, 2010