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Routes in Spaghetti Western Wall

Bareback S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Shadows S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheap Sunglasses S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheap Whiskey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Code of the West T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cowboy Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowboy Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demanda S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Helper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ned Flies a Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pale Rider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pitch Fork S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Powder Monkey Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reprimanda S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schadenfreude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smart Cowboy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soy Beefcake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Today We Climb...Tomorrow We Die! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Gun Show S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Grit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yosemite Sand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Josh Smith, Gary Parker, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 3,444 total, 32/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Has a crux down low, and then has pretty fun, rambly climbing. This route is kind of squeezed in with Pitchfork and Pale Rider, and about a third of the way up all three routes converge. Stick with the middle line if you want the climbing to stay at 5.9.

Location

On the left end of Walt's Wall.

Protection

12 bolts to chains
John Gustafson 1
Los Alamos, New Mexico
John Gustafson 1   Los Alamos, New Mexico
I appreciate the placement of the new anchors (and thanks for keeping those gnarly steel 'biners) but part of me misses that last traverse move. Nov 12, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10-
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10-
Got on this again because it is so enjoyable. I also wanted to get a second go to feel out the grade some more. (last time was near the end of the trip and I thought I might just be tired)

I agree with a few people that it is 5.10-, maybe hard 5.10a. Definitely agree with your feeling that it is a little more technical than others in the area at this difficulty, but the moves are all there.

I really like the new position of the anchors, it makes the finish flow a lot more with the rest of the route (upped my rating to 4 stars - I think this deserves a 3.5 on the average).

Thanks for your hard work, this climb is a gem! Sep 4, 2017
Based on the comment that a bolt had "sheared," I climbed the route again today. All the bolts in the middle of the route are in place. I assume the climber saw a buried stud from one of the bolts that I moved when trying to address earlier concerns and assumed it had broken. I moved the anchor about five feet to the left and moved the last bolt down and somewhat to the left, so the finish is now direct. I agree that moving the anchor makes it a better route. I think that the only weird thing now is that one bolt is slightly off to the right in the middle of the climb due to hollow rock directly on the line. But a long draw fixes that completely. Consensus grades are a fantastic feature of Mountain Project, but my 2 cents are that this route is slightly easier than Holy Wall at the Overlook, hence my 9+ assessment. However, it requires more technical climbing that counts on the friction of the rhyloite, so, that may account for the discrepancies in grading. Additionally, where the climbing is easy, the bolts are further than six feet apart. Aug 12, 2017
Loren Bunjes
  5.10c
Loren Bunjes  
  5.10c
This route is rated for the easy sections. The first three bolts are pushing 5.10c. After bolt 5, it is a cruise of probably 5.8+/5.9. The last few moves to the chains are 5.10- with huge swing potential depending on where you decide to climb. Aug 10, 2017
Tertia Davis
  5.10
Tertia Davis  
  5.10
Cool route, in a beautiful place. However, the rating does not seem accurate.. I can consistently lead 5.9s and 5.10s, and could not clip the third bolt so asked my friends to lead it instead, all better climbers than I. The next 3 people struggled with it a lot, enough that we moved a route to the right thinking we were confused, and couldn't tell which one was more difficult. I would think the difference between a 5.9 and a 5.12 would be more obvious! One bolt is sheared off (bolt 6 I believe) leaving a frightening distance between bolts. I enjoyed the mid-section a lot, that does feel like 5.8/5.9, but there are definitely harder moves than that for the first several bolts. Aug 9, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10-
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10-
I think this is a very, very good route with excellent movement. The clipping positions are well thought out and are placed at the right time in the movement, especially if you are climbing intelligently and not trying to high clip every bolt.

Maybe not the best route for a new 5.9 leader, especially with the crux down low and considering the heady nature of that climbing, but well protected and a great climb.

Get on this! Aug 1, 2017
Regarding the comment from skelldify, it seems worth noting that considerable thought went into bolting this route. In the months after it went up, I received feedback from a number of people and ended up moving several bolts (and added a bolt in the middle because of runout, hence the bolts that are to close together). I climbed it again this fall to see if it still held up as a quality route a decade later, and my feeling was that it did. The anchor is a little too far off to the right for the reason Daniel cites, but that seemed minor. I suggest that a few long draws can help the leader with drag and that top ropers benefit from a few directional draws. Nov 20, 2015
skelldify
  5.9+
skelldify  
  5.9+
This is a great line that is marred by horrendous bolt placement. You have to clip many of the bolts mid-sequence, and can never seem reach a bolt from any of the rests. Nov 17, 2015
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
I think the anchors were put in before the route was climbed (probably to provide a top-rope anchor for cleaning) and thus it wasn't clear at the time where the line was going. I agree that the anchors are a little off to the right but I'm not sure it's a big enough deal to warrant moving them (I presume this is the FAs line of thinking as well). Jun 29, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.9
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.9
Does the anchor seem off-route, too far to the right? It seems like there's a big swing potential for any toprope followers. Or were we off-route?

My belayer was holding the halfway mark on my 60m rope exactly when I hit the anchor, so a 50 wouldn't do it. Jun 29, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Great moderate sport route with cool, varied moves and a line that just keeps going! Crux is the first twenty five feet with easier but arguably more entertaining 5.8 above.

I'm guessing a 50m rope won't work as I had less than twenty feet left in my 60m after lowering off. Jun 16, 2009