Morocco Rock Climbing

The land of changing sands, high peaks, and endless Casbahs. Morocco is an enchanting country where cultures collide, and so do tectonic plates. The High Atlas mountains have given us a year-round climbing destination that is just a short skip from Western Europe.

Morocco has continued to change over the years, and it’s not the same place it was a decade ago. But tourism is always a large source of income for the people of Morocco, so be prepared for everyone to be happy to see you. Morocco is likely less affordable than you may think, but if you are good at dirtbagging you can get by well. There are ATMs and internet cafes in most larger towns, including Tinerhir.

Morocco is generally a safe and fun place to travel, but as with many other places frequented by tourists, there are some scams, many a simple variation of bait and hook and most often targeted towards Euro-American tourists. Some people may be pushy, and it helps to be firm in your intentions. It also helps to remember that when you're bartering over whether to pay $5 or $8 for a taxi fare (for example), the $3 extra cost of the higher price is significantly more beneficial to the driver than it is detrimental to your budget. IE sometimes it's just better to not barter and pay the higher price, because a majority of western tourists can afford to do so. 

Morocco is a fun and safe place to visit, as always be aware of any valuables you're carrying and consider leaving them behind at a hotel or car if you don't need them on your person.

Areas to climb:

In Morocco, there are many climbing sites throughout the entire Rif and Atlas Mountains. Most areas are well equipped with bolted routes, with the exception of Tafraoute and Jebel Kest, where the dominant style is trad. 

* The most well known (for better or worse) is Todra Gorge with over 500 routes now - half of them are multi-pitch. The area is being maintained and re-equipped by a local climbing company.

* Taghia is a beautiful site at a higher elevation than Todra and it has a lot of multi-pitch routes. Winter is too cold here to climb and the routes favor climbers solid at 5.11 and up.

* Chefchaouen is north in the Rif, and has milder temperatures and more top roping routes.

* Jebel Kest and Tafraoute are just 2-3 hours from the Agadir airport and together host 1500-2000 routes. A majority of the routes are trad, but there is also some sport climbing for those traveling without a rack. Best visited in late September through early May to avoid the intense summer heat. This region is best for moderate climbers that enjoy adventure in remote landscapes, alongside rich Amazigh culture. 

* Other areas include Amélago, Ben Sliman, Agadir, Beni Mellal, Ouzoud, and Amtoudi. Most of these 'other areas' don't have much public information available (yet). Many FAs are waiting and available for right person. TJ Brumme lives and guides in Morocco and is happy to share beta.