Elevation: 8,919 ft
GPS: 31.728, -6.35 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 167,038 total · 1,189/month
Shared By: Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Angelique Brown

Description

The land of changing sands, high peaks, and endless Casbahs. Morocco is an enchanting country where cultures collide, and so do tectonic plates. The High Atlas mountains have given us a year-round climbing destination that is just a short skip from Western Europe.

Morocco has continued to change over the years, and it’s not the same place it was a decade ago. But tourism is always a large source of income for the people of Morocco, so be prepared for everyone to be happy to see you. Morocco is likely less affordable than you may think, but if you are good at dirtbagging you can get by well. There are ATMs and internet cafes in most larger towns, including Tinerhir.

Morocco is generally a safe and fun place to travel, but be aware that there are a number of scams out there, many a simple variation of bait and hook and most often targeted towards Euro-American tourists. People may be pushy, it is important to be firm in your intentions.

Bartering is the way business is conducted in Morocco, and it can be fun. With all bartering situations, know that your appearance and other factors may play a role in the amount the seller will attempt to fetch. Also, know that a handshake is considered an official deal. Be honest and consistent in your dealings and make sure to remain friendly to those you meet and shake their hand in greeting.

Morocco is a fun and generally safe place to visit, but with all traveling be aware of any valuables you're carrying and consider leaving them behind at a hotel or car if you don't need them on your person.

Areas to climb:

In Morocco, there are many climbing sites throughout the entire Rif and Atlas Mountains. Most routes are in "trad" or "adventure playground" and have no equipment in place. There are however some major sites for sports climbing with very well-equipped routes.

  • The most notable is the "The gorges of Todgha" with over 500 routes now - half of them are multi-pitch. The area is being maintained and re-equipped by a local climbing company.
  • Taghia is a beautiful altitude site with a lot of multi-pitch routes, but unfortunately the season is short and the conditions are mountainous.
  • Chefchaouen is north in the Rif, and has milder temperatures and more top roping routes.
  • Jebel Kest can be found south of Tafraoute and has beautiful Trad routes. The heat can be intense, though, so this is a winter only climbing area.
  • Other areas include Amélago, Ben Sliman, and Amtoudi.

Toiletries, Facilities, and More

Morocco, exempting cities, is third world, that being said, you may want to bring hand sanitizer, and your own soap (Dr. Bronners), they are often not available. Also, many toilets are squaties with a bucket bidet, if you are not comfortable with that, bring a roll of TP and bags to carry it out, their sewer cannot process TP. Condoms and alcohol are also not readily available for social moral codes, so if you chooses to bring them, use discretely.

Getting There

International flights into Morocco are abundant and hassle-free with good service to both Casablanca and Marrekesh when coming from the states. Direct flights into Agadir can also be had from Europe. Royal Air Maroc also offers domestic flights at a low expense. For most climbing trips, renting a car will be mandatory. You may also choose to take a ferry from spain and drive your microbus through Morocco: http://www.cemar.it/dest/ferries_morocco.htm 

498 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Morocco

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
 10
Toubkal Standard Route
Snow
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Tik sab
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Qui L'eut cru?
Sport 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5
 3
The first of Ela
Sport, Boulder 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Une arête dans la gorge
Sport 12 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
La marche verte
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
 7
La classique
Sport, Aid 9 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Hannah chez les grands
Sport 9 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Firesword
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Castorama
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Coeur de palmier 1
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Abert
Sport 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Chibania
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Ensalada Metallica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Afrique Physique
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Toubkal Standard Route Jbel Toubkal
 10
Easy Snow Snow
Tik sab Todra Gorge > Jardins d'ete
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
Qui L'eut cru? Todra Gorge > Jardins d'ete
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 10 pitches
The first of Ela Todra Gorge > Paroi du Levant
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5 Sport, Boulder 5 pitches
Une arête dans la gorge Todra Gorge > Arrete nord
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 12 pitches
La marche verte Todra Gorge > Mansour gauche
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
La classique Todra Gorge > Pilier Du Couchant
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 Sport, Aid 9 pitches
Hannah chez les grands Todra Gorge > Paroi du Levant
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
Firesword Anti-Atlas: Jeb… > Samazar Valley > Dragon Buttress
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Castorama Todra Gorge > Mansour gauche
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Coeur de palmier 1 Todra Gorge > Mansour gauche
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Abert Todra Gorge > Pilier Du Couchant
 8
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
Chibania Todra Gorge > Pilier Du Couchant
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Ensalada Metallica Todra Gorge > Petites Gorges Rive G…
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Afrique Physique Todra Gorge > Trainée blanche
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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