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Areas in Morocco

Akchour 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Anti -Atlas. Tafroute and Jebel El Kest 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jbel Toubkal 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Jbel Zalagh 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra North, Anti-Atlas 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Taghia 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 1
Todra Gorge 3 / 38 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 40
Elevation: 8,919 ft
GPS: 31.728, -6.35 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Forestvonsinkafinger on Jan 26, 2009 with updates
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Description

The land of changing sands, high peaks, and endless Casbahs. Morocco is an enchanting country where cultures collide, and so do tectonic plates. The High Atlas mountains have given us a year-round climbing destination that is just a short skip from Western Europe.

Morocco has continued to change over the years, and it’s not the same place it was a decade ago. But tourism is always a large source of income for the people of Morocco, so be prepared for everyone to be happy to see you. Morocco is likely less affordable than you may think, but if you are good at dirtbagging you can get by well. There are ATMs and internet cafes in most larger towns, including Tinerhir.

Morocco is generally a safe and fun place to travel, but be aware that there are a number of scams out there, many a simple variation of bait and hook and most often targeted towards Euro-American tourists. People may be pushy, it is important to be firm in your intentions.

Bartering is the way business is conducted in Morocco, and it can be fun. With all bartering situations, know that your appearance and other factors may play a role in the amount the seller will attempt to fetch. Also, know that a handshake is considered an official deal. Be honest and consistent in your dealings and make sure to remain friendly to those you meet and shake their hand in greeting.

Morocco is a fun and generally safe place to visit, but with all traveling be aware of any valuables you're carrying and consider leaving them behind at a hotel or car if you don't need them on your person.


Areas to climb:

In Morocco, there are many climbing sites throughout the entire Rif and Atlas Mountains. Most routes are in "trad" or "adventure playground" and have no equipment in place. There are however some major sites for sports climbing with very well-equipped routes.

  • The most notable is the "The gorges of Todgha" with over 500 routes now - half of them are multi-pitch. The area is being maintained and re-equipped by a local climbing company.
  • Taghia is a beautiful altitude site with a lot of multi-pitch routes, but unfortunately the season is short and the conditions are mountainous.
  • Chefchaouen is north in the Rif, and has milder temperatures and more top roping routes.
  • Jebel Kest can be found south of Tafraoute and has beautiful Trad routes. The heat can be intense, though, so this is a winter only climbing area.
  • Other areas include Amélago, Ben Sliman, and Amtoudi.

Toiletries, Facilities, and More

Morocco, exempting cities, is third world, that being said, you may want to bring hand sanitizer, and your own soap (Dr. Bronners), they are often not available. Also, many toilets are squaties with a bucket bidet, if you are not comfortable with that, bring a roll of TP and bags to carry it out, their sewer cannot process TP. Condoms and alcohol are also not readily available for social moral codes, so if you chooses to bring them, use discretely.

Getting There

I would highly suggest flying direct into Marrakech and renting an Auto. You can also fly into Casablanca, trust me though, CB is only worth a few hours at the Hassan II mosque, then you can catch a train to Marrakech. You may also choose to take a ferry from spain and drive your microbus through Morocco: http://www.cemar.it/dest/ferries_morocco.htm

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Classic Climbing Routes at Morocco

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I absolutely want to visit morocco now:’) The peripheral design is wonderful… on a side note, please check out my website! viriksonmoroccoholidays.co.uk it’s for my e-business school project to boost partaking of values through message interchange. Nov 8, 2017
Leanna Gingras
Seattle
Leanna Gingras   Seattle
Hello! I land in Fes on November 24 and expect to be climbing Akchour, Todgha, ??? a few days after that. Don't know how long I'll be there - it depends on how the climbing goes and on whether I can find a partner. Maybe it can be you! Shoot me a message! I climb 6s but always happy to belay and I give a good catch. Nov 4, 2016
Hey Steve- I'm heading there solo too in late January. Looks like we'll miss each other but I'd love to hear about your experience and how you make out with finding partners. Oct 30, 2016
Hey all -- I'm headed to Marakesh in early November this year (2016). Anyone know the best way to find a climbing buddy? Want to climb with me? Oct 25, 2016
Climbing in the Todgha gorges, Morocco
The name of this structure is :
Aventures verticales des gorges du Todgha

All information about them on websites :
climbing-in-morocco.com
escalade-au-maroc.com

On their facebook page:
facebook.com/escalade.maroc

They have created a new guidebook 2 years ago and this year it's the second edit with all new updates.

The price is 250 dhs around 30$

You can buy it at "Aventures Verticales des gorges du Todgha" In the last village of Tizgui, 400m before the entrance at the gorges heart

You can too find the guideook in digital version to download
climbingaway.fr/fr/site-esc…
Jul 11, 2016
Cimbing in Morocco
In Morocco you can climb in several places, the north to the south. The main places are Chefchaouen, Taghia, Amélago, Todra gorges, Trafraout (only trad).

The best place is certainly "The Todra gorges" because the equipment is very good at now, there are more than 500 routes with a lot of multipitch.
The site is never far from the accomodation and climbing is possible all year, there is always a face on shadow or at sun.

And 3 years ago, a group of local guys with Julio a french climber who lives here, created a new company for the development of climbing with the same internationnales rules that everywhere in the world.

This structure located in the Todra Gorge over the province of Tinghir.
Its main activity is the accompaniment for climbing, mountaineering and hiking for the tourists of the region.

It also has a shop sell mountain sporting goods and offers renting the equipment for practice of the activities it accompanies or not.

The accompaniment is carried out by trained and qualified local guides.
This structure does a huge work of equipment and re-equipment of climbing routes in the Todra gorges and more widely in Morocco.

It develops vertical activities such as alpine progression paths and has created the first part of a via ferrata, the first in Morocco and certainly in Africa.

This structure has made a climbing guidebook on Todgha and regularly offers free training for young people and children who wish to practice climbing in the gorges.

Warning: Unfortunately, the transparency with which wants to work "Vertical Adventures Morocco" in Todra gorges. Display of prices and refusal to distribute bribes causes problems with some local actors attached to these practices.
Also we caution you on false indications made by these individuals as well as on the danger of the completely false copy of the guidebook they will try to sell you.
We encourage you to visit us when you come and so avoid some "traps"

This only applies to a few bad individuals, this is not in the minds of people which live here who are generous and welcoming. Jul 11, 2016
My wife are thinking about climibing there early June. Will it be too hot. We are from Arizona USA and are pretty heat tolerant. What are temps in the shade. Also it will be Ramadan. Will we be able to get any beer or wine anywhere? Mar 13, 2016
Dreez  
We are headed here in June 2013. Looking for a couple things.

1) Anyone want to meet up and go in a group
2) Where can we rent gear
3) Guide books, etc. Ideas?

THanks maybe see you there?

dreez Mar 10, 2013
Emma Alsford
Cardiff Wales U.K
Emma Alsford   Cardiff Wales U.K
New definitive guidebook for the Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra north (an area about 40 minutes from Tafraoute) containing around 1,000 routes in 6 main areas now available (published September 2012) - see moroccorock.com Posting to USA is £10 so cost is £37-50 through the main paypal site to an email available through this site. Fantastic trad climbing from single pitch roadside cragging to multi-pitch mountain adventures. Still in its relative infancy and plenty of scope for new routing.
Oct 22, 2012
Any recommendations for which guidebook to choose? I'm considering the Claude Davies book but wondered what else might be out there, thanks. Feb 23, 2011
Mary303
Golden, CO
Mary303   Golden, CO
For mostly sport, head to Todra Gorge.
For more adventurous trad/alpine, Tafraoute.

We were told about a more remote trad area that is a 3-day donkey ride from Todra Gorge, but we did not get the chance to check it out. Hassan Moujahir would be the man to talk to about this.

There are several ways to get to Morocco. We took a flight from Denver, with a layover in Frankfort, to Casablanca.
You can also fly into Spain and take a ferry over. Dec 15, 2009
Perhaps people seemed extra urgent to obtain a sale from us because it was christmas, and tourism was down. In the area of the Erg Chebbi, we felt bombarded, people knocking on our doors and following us trying to sell camel tours. These particular salesmen were extremely pushy. On the contrary, we did meet people in the mountains that went out of their way for us, particularly in Todre Gorge and Imlil. I study intercultural communication and have attended lectures on Moroccan bartering strategies, and understand that Moroccans do business differently than Iowans. That said, I have amended the above text. Thanks for the suggestions. Oct 21, 2009
Weldon Beauchamp
Dallas, Texas
Weldon Beauchamp   Dallas, Texas
I did my PhD Dissertation in Morocco 15 years ago and I have been traveling to Morocco several times a year (mostly for geological mapping). I can say that there are several lifetimes of rock to climb in Morocco. I have crossed the High Atlas and Middle Atlas and been to most regions of the country. I would recommend highly anyone to go to Morocco. Everyone I have recommended to go there has come back and had a great experience. The people are wonderful. My only caveat is that the people will give you the shirt off their backs. When hiking I try to avoid small villages as the people will often invite you in an insist that you eat with them and drink tea (a national pastime) and often these people are poor and really cannot afford to offer you food. Americans might not like the food offered as well as the Berbers eat every part of a sheep. Use common sense and respect of the Islamic way of life and traditions and the Moroccan people will treat like brothers and sisters. Aug 5, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
I agree it depends on what part of Morocco you are in . The big towns are a bit of a hassle but that applies to most countries. I did stay in a good hotel in Tafroute (about $30 a night per person ) ,but sleep would be more accurate I had all my meals in town and got to know many of the locals really well .They seem to like Americans and Brits,apart from one US citizen that they kept a very careful eye on who originated from Texas.Hope more examples of routes are posted .Go for it Rob. May 1, 2009
Does it say more about the country, or about the visitors, that every time the talk turns to Morocco the topic quickly turns to hustlers and how to avoid them?

I think, Paul, that staying in that nice hotel in Tafraoute and getting around in your rent-a-car might exempt you from a lot of the situations that generate all this talk. Folks who try and tour the entire country on the cheap could have a different view. I won't presume to say whose is more correct. Three sentences on the charm of the country followed by a lengthy catalog of caveats does seem a bit paranoid.

If you're going to contribute regularly to this section it'll quickly have a lot to offer. My wife and I climbed a bunch of new stuff in March '07 that I'd consider writing up if it looked like the Tafraoute section was going to be somewhat comprehensive, but it's you guys that have really done the exploring there and I'd rather that our small contributions didn't constitute the majority of the spray. Apr 27, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
I have been climbing 5 times to Morocco mainly the Tafraute Area (Anti Atlas MT's). and I find much of the above advice way too paranoid. I and many other friends from the UK and the US found the people VERY friendly and had no problems with dishonesty etc . Apr 27, 2009

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