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Routes in Pilier Du Couchant

Abert T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chibania T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La classique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 810 total, 11/month
Shared By: KyleAnderson on Feb 9, 2012 with updates
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Description

A very fun longer route. This route requires a lot of stemming, a few cracks, and a few technical sections.

At now there are 9 pitches
This multi pitch route have been all re-bolted by Aventures Verticales Maroc on May 2017 .

L1 / 5.10b / 35m / 9 quickdraws
L2 / 5.9 / 35m / 7 quickdraws
L3 / 5.10c / 25m / 10 quickdraws
L4 / 5.10c / 25m / 9 quickdraws
L5 / 5.10a / 25m / 8 quickdraws
L6 / 5.9 / 20 m / 6 quickdraws
L7 / 5.10b / 40m / 8 quickdraws
L8 / 5.10b / 30m / 7 quickdraws
L9 / 5.9 / 50m / 7 quickdraws

Location

Right in the middle of the sector following the left side of the pillar. on the right of the small tree.

Protection

12 quickdraws

Photos

This multi pitch route have been all re-bolted by Aventures Verticales Maroc on May 2017 .

L1 / 5.10b / 35m / 9 quickdraws
L2 / 5.9 / 35m / 7 quickdraws
L3 / 5.10c / 25m / 10 quickdraws
L4 / 5.10c / 25m / 9 quickdraws
L5 / 5.10a / 25m / 8 quickdraws
L6 / 5.9 / 20 m / 6 quickdraws
L7 / 5.10b / 40m / 8 quickdraws
L8 / 5.10b / 30m / 7 quickdraws
L9 / 5.9 / 50m / 7 quickdraws

And if I may, I take this opportunity to inform you that the gorges of Todra are equipped with more than 400 climbing routes
That the equipment and the re-equipment of the climbing routes of the gorges of the Todra are currently done and financed thanks to the sale of the climbing topoguides realized by Aventures Verticales Maroc.
All information on the contact page of our websites:
escalade-au-maroc.com
climbing-in-morocco.com
I would like to thank you all for to share this important information for the economic development of the Todra gorge around vertical activities.
Sincerely
Julio Soares Jul 7, 2017
Todd Snyder
South Lake Tahoe
 
Todd Snyder   South Lake Tahoe
 
#1. Voie Albert, 6a+:

Approach: We did this route 13March16 & it did not get sun until noon or a little after; it was still very cool in the shade but perfect in the sun. We waded the river barefoot - the water wasn't as cold as we expected & never more than knee deep & the rocks were mostly smooth. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree.

Route notes: The belay anchors are good (2 bolts) but not "equalized" - they have chord connecting the bolts & a rusty screw link in the lower bolt. The route *could* be rapped with an 80m role but the walk off is so casual, it wouldn't be worth it.

We completed the route in 4 pitches: P1 & P2 @ 70m - the crux of P1 comes about 25-30m up & is thin, technical & airy. P2 is straightforward & gives no rope drag. Belay ledge is sloping but good. P3 & P4 @ ~66m - airy climbing with quite a ways between bolts to an excellent belay ledge. If you don't feel solid on 6a climbing, cams can be placed often (*maybe* nuts if you're clever). P5 & P6 @ ~76m - We went slightly right, following the "as for Classique". There can be a lot of drag unless long runners are used at the appropriate places. Not so great sloping stance with 2 new bolts (no chord). P7 & P8 @ ~76m - these pitches are much lower angle with much further between bolts. Following the bolt line, everything is solid, don't get too far off route or it can be loose. The rock is also more blocky & can appear loose but all felt solid. From this anchor, we walked to the top in about 10m of 4th class to 3rd class.

The walk down is obvious & easy - the trail down can be seen from the summit. Look for cairns heading away from the face and slightly down & right. At a point where the cairns seem to lead to a cliff, you will find an easy ramp system down & left to the well-travelled trail that leads to the road. Decent took less than 40 minutes. Apr 3, 2016
Thomas Gilmore
Red River Gorge, KY
  5.10+
Thomas Gilmore   Red River Gorge, KY
  5.10+
The top of this route is now very nicely bolted. This route connects with the route "Clasica" to the right at the beginning of pitch 5. If you are a confident 5.10 leader, a fistful of quickdraws is all you will need if not, a light set of nuts will help you through. A 70m rope will allow you to link pitches if you so desire. If you are looking for something slightly harder and slightly more runout, jump on Clasica to the right of Albert. Dec 10, 2015