Type: Sport, Aid, 985 ft, 9 pitches
FA: 1977 french group
Page Views: 389 total · 21/month
Shared By: Aventures verticales Maroc on Jul 7, 2017
Admins: Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

L1/ 5.10b / 40m / 10 quickdraws / 40m of 6a with a step on a slight dome, then well protected 6a+ climbing.
L2 / 5.10a / 40m / 12 quickdraws / Long and beautiful crack very well protected.
L3 / 5.10a / 20m / 8 quickdraws / No major difficulty, a slightly physical step well protected before the fixed belay. One reaches the by a small crossing on the right.
L4 / 5.10a / 30m / 11 quickdraws / 6a sustained and physical or 5c / A0, dihedral with a jammed block at the exit.
L5 / 5.10a / 25m / 8 quickdraws / Crack and a step on a slight overhang.
L6 / 5.9 / 20m / 6 quickdraws / Progression in vertical choss.
L7 / 5.10b / 50m / 8 quickdraws / A physical dihedral and overhanging on the right at the start then 20m of easy climbing.
L8 / 5.10b / 30m / 7 quickdraws / A small slab with an overhanging crack at the start, then easy. Keep to the right so as not to miss the belay.
L9 / 5.9 / 30m / 7 quickdraws / Follow the last length of Chibania, pay attention to the unstable blocks.

The first ascent of this route was in 1977 by a french group. This route was re-bolted by Aventures Verticales Maroc in May 2017

Location

This route is the second on the left on "pilier du couchant.
The start of the route is located to the right of the big bush, where you can see the first bolt.
Descent ~60 min: follow the cairns on the plateau, then the shepherds trail that ends at the entrance of the gorges

Protection

12 quickdraws max.

Photos

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Nicholas L.
Chapel Hill, NC
 
Nicholas L.   Chapel Hill, NC
 
This was a fun route and the last belay is in a pretty spectacular position.

The new bolts are bomber and the whole thing is safely bolted. The anchors had a single cord through the bolts with a quicklink. I brought a very light rack and only placed one piece on the very last pitch but it wasn't even necessary. I linked pitches 2&3, 5&6, 7&8 with a 70m with no issues (I chose this combo just because of how it worked out with the # of quickdraws I had). Feb 23, 2018