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Routes in Pilier Du Couchant

Abert T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chibania T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La classique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C5
Pas sur, pas sur du tout S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pilier du Couchant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, Aid, 985 ft, 9 pitches
FA: 1977 french group
Page Views: 177 total · 13/month
Shared By: Aventures verticales Maroc on Jul 7, 2017
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Description

L1/ 5.10b / 40m / 10 quickdraws / We enters directly into the subject, 40m in 6a with a step on a slight domed with a well protected 6a +.
L2 / 5.10a / 40m / 12 quickdraws / Long and beautiful crack very well protected.
L3 / 5.10a / 20m / 8 quickdraws / No major difficulty, a slightly physical step well protected before the relay equipped that one reaches by a small crossing on the right.
L4 / 5.10a / 30m / 11 quickdraws / 6a sustained and physical or 5c / A0, dihedral with at the exit, a jammed block.
L5 / 5.10a / 25m / 8 quickdraws / Crack and a step on a slight overhang.
L6 / 5.9 / 20m / 6 quickdraws / Progression in a vertical chaos.
L7 / 5.10b / 50m / 8 quickdraws / A physical dihedral and overhanging on the right at the start then 20m easy.
L8 / 5.10b / 30m / 7 quickdraws / A small slab with an overhanging crack at the start, then easy. Keep to the right so as not to miss the relay.
L9 / 5.9 / 30m / 7 quickdraws / We follow the last length of Chibania, pay attention to the unstable blocks.

The first ascend of this route itwas in 1977 by a french group.
This route has been re-bolted by Aventures Verticales Maroc in May 2017
The equipment and the re-equipment of the climbing routes of the gorges of the Todra are currently done and financed thanks to the sale of the climbing topoguides realized by Aventures Verticales Maroc.
All information on the contact page of our websites:
escalade-au-maroc.com
climbing-in-morocco.com
I would like to thank you all for to share this important information for the economic development of the Todgha gorges around vertical activities.
Many thanks
Julio Soares

Location

This route is on "pilier du couchant, it's the first on the left
The start of the route is located to the right of the big bush, where you can see the first bolt.
Descent # 30 min
For go down, follow the cairns on the plateau, then the track of the shepherds, to arrive at the entrance of the gorges

Protection

12 quickdraws max.

Photos

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Nicholas L.
Raleigh, NC
 
Nicholas L.   Raleigh, NC
 
This was a fun route and the last belay is in a pretty spectacular position.

The new bolts are bomber and the whole thing is safely bolted. The anchors had a single cord through the bolts with a quicklink. I brought a very light rack and only placed one piece on the very last pitch but it wasn't even necessary. I linked pitches 2&3, 5&6, 7&8 with a 70m with no issues (I chose this combo just because of how it worked out with the # of quickdraws I had). Feb 23, 2018

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