Type: Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches
FA: Y. Martin & R. Vogler
Page Views: 250 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 12, 2022
Admins: Angelique Brown, TJ Brumme

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The proudest line on the Pilier Du Couchant, but come prepared. Average bolt spacing is probably around 10+ feet but bigger runouts up to 30+ feet are mandatory on some pitches. A light rack is highly recommended to keep the runouts reasonable. It appears that this route hasn't been climbed in years (or decades) judging from all the old tat, but the bolts seemed good?

Pitch 1, 7a (11d): A long 37m pitch with lots of sustained technical face climbing. This is the crux pitch and also the best pitch on the route! 

Pitch 2 6b, (10c): A short pitch (20m?) that is mostly a free solo unless you have some cams. The route finding is a little tricky since there is a tempting line of bolts to the left. When in doubt stay to the right and follow discontinuous crack systems. This pitch can be easily linked into the next pitch.

 Pitch 3, 6b (10c): Similar climbing to the second pitch that links crack systems (20M).

Pitch 4, 6c (11a): More thin climbing with occasional bolts.  Another short pitch that can be linked into pitch 5 (20m).

Pitch 5, 6c (11a): Follow the obvious line of bolts above the anchor. There are two bolts that are pretty close to each other off the belay but clipping the second one seemed like more trouble than its worth, it might be best to skip it. At the roof with the hole the route trends right to a nice belay (18m).

Pitch 6, 6a+ (10b): An easier pitch the trends left to the second to last anchor on La Classique.  It's possible to link pitches 4, 5 & 6 into one long pitch (18m).

One more long pitch, or two short pitches will take you to the top.

Location Suggest change

Right up the middle of the Pilier on the steepest part of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

12 quickdraws, some long slings for rope drag, threads and anchors. A single rack to 3" should be sufficient.

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