Type: Trad, Sport, 1100 ft (333 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,648 total · 19/month
Shared By: Cedric B on May 13, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Angelique Brown

You & This Route


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Description

A dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone.

Pitch 1 involves some 5.8 climbing with no bolts.

Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.10a terrain.

Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10b

Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10c (6b) to 5.10d (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques from fist jams to pockets. It is a bit run-out but takes small pro.

Pitch 5 = 5.10b also involves two or three exciting moves, following the dihedral.

Pitches 6-7: The last 2 pitches are 5.9+ and are easier climbing on occasionally sharp limestone slab.

The descent is an easy 45/60 min walk-off to the right (East), with cairns marking the trail back to the road.

Location

Pilier du Couchant, left-trending dihedral, about a 5 minute approach from the main Gorges road.

Protection

The climb is a bit sparsely bolted and bringing a light rack was useful. All anchors are bolted; bolts appear relatively new.

Photos

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