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Routes in Pilier Du Couchant

Abert T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chibania T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La classique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Type: Trad, Sport, 1100 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 512 total, 12/month
Shared By: Cedric BG on May 13, 2014
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Description

A dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone.

Pitch 1 involves some 5.2ish climbing with no bolts.

Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.8 terrain.

Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10.

Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10b (6a) to 5.11a (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques from fist jams to pockets. It is a bit run-out but takes small pro.

Pitch 5 also involves two or three exciting moves, following the dihedral.

Pitches 6-7: The last 2 pitches are of mediocre quality; easy climbing on occasionally sharp limestone slab.

The descent is an easy 30-45 min walk-off to the right, with cairns marking the trail back to the road.

Unfortunately I took few good photos; there is some good beta on the Internet although mostly in Spanish or French.
Catalan blog post on Chibania

Location

Pilier du Couchant, left-trending dihedral, about a 5 minute approach from the main Gorges road.

Protection

The climb is a bit sparsely bolted and bringing a light rack was useful. All anchors are bolted; bolts appear relatively new.

Photos

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