Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1100 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||512 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Cedric BG on May 13, 2014|
DescriptionA dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone.
Pitch 1 involves some 5.2ish climbing with no bolts.
Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.8 terrain.
Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10.
Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10b (6a) to 5.11a (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques from fist jams to pockets. It is a bit run-out but takes small pro.
Pitch 5 also involves two or three exciting moves, following the dihedral.
Pitches 6-7: The last 2 pitches are of mediocre quality; easy climbing on occasionally sharp limestone slab.
The descent is an easy 30-45 min walk-off to the right, with cairns marking the trail back to the road.
Unfortunately I took few good photos; there is some good beta on the Internet although mostly in Spanish or French.
Catalan blog post on Chibania