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Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Butterflies are Free T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Feet of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashdance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northern Revival T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Partition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weekend Warrior S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Elevation: 2,201 ft
GPS: 44.143, -73.744 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,711 total, 145/month
Shared By: colin loher on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Multipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary.

Getting There

Approach as for the Creature Wall. From the Creature Wall continue left along the base following a faint climbers trail uphill and left for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Washbowl Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wiessner Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hesitation
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prelude
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Butterflies are Free
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Partition
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overture
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wiessner Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Hesitation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Prelude 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Butterflies are Free 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Partition 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Overture 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Weekend Warrior 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Washbowl Cliff »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jim Lawyer    
That is the "Descent Wall". Left route is Breaking Trad (11b) and the right route is DP (5.12c). Oct 28, 2017
Hi, we climbed the Wiessner route on the upper Wahsbowl last weekend. When you reach the summit and walk-off of this amazing climb we found 2 short bolted routs to the right, just a few meters along the walk-off from the cliff. The bolts looked very new and the left route must be at least a 5.10a. Does anybody know what climbs these are? Oct 26, 2017
For descent from the right side: we picked up a good trail from the top of overture that took us into the woods. Follow this until you see a rocky cliff edge to your right, go over it, and look down and left. There's a small cairn leading to a rap tree. Rappel from here to the ledge ~30' below and find another rappel tree at the (skier's) left end. About 33m to the ground. May 24, 2016
Descent: I strongly second Dominic's comment. The walk off on climber's left side is the best and easiest way down if you're on the left half of the wall. Jun 8, 2015
A 70m rope will reach from the top of Partition to the cedar on the 3rd class ledge and will also reach from the cedar to the ground. Oct 12, 2013
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
the guidebook makes the walk off descent sound terrible but I didn't find the descent on the climbers left side of the cliff to be problematic at all, in fact it's no more difficult than hiking back down the approach trail. I would highly recommend saving yourself the hassle and just use the walk off. it's very easy to follow. Sep 16, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
When rappelling from the large cedar on the 3rd class ledge, you can use a stick in the crack as a back-up but it is pretty easy to keep the ropes on the lip as you rappel. If you use the "stick in the crack" method, be sure to bring one from the ground. Don't break one off of the tree. Also, I didn't think the walk-off was all that bad. Yeah, it's loose in a few sections but it's pretty quick and hassle-free. Nov 24, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes. Aug 29, 2009
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Descent Note: The Partition rappel is "problematic". Rappelling from the top of Partition with a single 60m rope gets you to the 3rd-class ramp but most likely will not make it to the fixed anchor (a cedar) above Mastercharge. A single 60m rope will not make it to the ground from here. There is a smaller cedar about half-way down with an awful stance that has a fixed anchor, though it has a continuously changing supply of leaver biners that are cleaned and then replaced (two ropes will get you to the ground).
The ledge the large cedar is on has a couple slots where the ropes can become jammed, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. You can wedge a stick in there to prevent the rope from running in the slots or ensure you run the ropes over the lip, and not in the slots. Aug 29, 2009

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