Type: Trad, 275 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total · 2/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on May 19, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The first two pitches of Flashdance offer great moves, good protection, and contrasting characters. They also offer a much more fulfilling approach to pitch 3 of Overture. For those not looking for the path of least resistance, I would recommend this as the link-up to provide the best consistent climbing for this section of the cliff.

Pitch 1 (5.9) 75': Climb the right side of the flake at the base and gain the right-facing corner. Technical climbing with a thuggish move brings you to a ledge with a left-rising tips crack in a mini right-facing corner. Follow this to the obvious humangous overlap/right-facing flake. Move right making physical moves transitioning from undercling to lieback to corner in/on the flake. Follow the flake/corner to its top (actually a large pillar) and a fixed anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.9+) 60': Gain the obvious horizontal and hand traverse right approximately 15' (3" piece) until you are below a left-rising ramp. Climb delicately to a stance (loose rock potential) below the ramp and climb the ramp to a short overhanging open book with an incipienct finger/tips crack. Climb this crack (crux) to gain the Overture ramp right below the 4' vertical step on that climbs second pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.6) 70': An awkward 5.6 move clears the 4' head wall. Follow the ramp to it's end at a dinner table sized ledge with a half-inch crack in its floor. Overture drops down and then goes climber's left from this ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.10c) 70': To the right of the dinner table ledge, climb the orange lichen covered rock in the open-book/corner to an alcove beneath a large roof. Undercling out and climb the tiered roof system to the top.

Location

Start: Approximately 25 feet left of the big cedar tree right before the wide open debris field at the base of Overture & Prelude. At a right-facing corner with a big flake at its base.
Descent: The closet option is to rappel the climber's right side of the cliff, refer to the main page for directions and other options.

Protection

Gear: To 3" including micro cams, additional 3" or a 4" piece would not be a bad idea if you're not comfortable at the grade.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
If you're doing the Overture linkup, this branches left at the aforementioned "dinner table ledge". May 22, 2013