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Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Butterflies are Free T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Feet of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashdance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northern Revival T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Partition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weekend Warrior S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Purcell, Mellor 1990
Page Views: 87 total, 15/month
Shared By: Daniel Affsprung on Jun 21, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The description of this route in the Adirondack Rock guidebook may scare folks off it, but I was surprised to find a number of nice new bolts protecting the start. The 10c R section is no longer a concern: hopefully this encourages more folks to go climb it.

This awesome, varied, and sustained pitch is in an amazing position and offers off-vertical 5.11 climbing that protects well and will keep you thinking. Begin at the bolts to the right of the Partition corner, off the slanted ledge, and climb through clean solid edges to interspersed rests between technical, engaging cruxes. At the last bolt, prepare for uninterrupted difficulties until the end, as well as some Adirondack dirt and lichen to keep things interesting.

Location

Begins 20 feet right of the Partition corner, on the slanting ledge

Protection

Bolts, a few pitons and an old can-opener looking riveted hangar protect the meat of the bottom half, but the crux(es) and the 2nd half protect with trad gear.

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
Yes, as detailed here, this route has been upgraded by the FA party. Jun 22, 2017