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Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Butterflies are Free T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Feet of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashdance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Northern Revival T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Partition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weekend Warrior S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Turner
Page Views: 4,723 total, 42/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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1 Climb 4" crack to overhang, up to crack and to belay stepping right consisting of pitons. 5.8

2 Climb up to roof and clip 3 pitons while traversing under the roof with mild runout. At the third piton turn the roof, and climb up the ramp with basically no gear for 25' to a single piton and gear belay. 5.7 PG 5.5 R Note the first piton is at the apex corner the second in the middle, and the third is below a ramp where you go straight up!!

3 Climb up broken crack system to a ledge below a sick looking left facing corner. 5.5

4 Climb the corner to the top! This pitch is nice!! ( :

I give this climb 4 stars for the nice first pitch, and the exciting traverse, and quality 4th pitch. Its a nice climb with magnificant views of chapel pond, and slab, and ADK in general.


When you arrive at upper washbowl take a left until you get to a corner with a small cliff below. The Base is a scramble up the small cliff to a nice area with a 4" crack and a overhang.


I used a 4.5" cam and a standard rack.
Montreal, Quebec
  5.8 PG13
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.8 PG13
Just climbed this today, the leader linked pitch 1 & 2 with 60m doubles, it doesn't eliminate the sketchy part on the second pitch but avoids having to setup an anchor under the choss roof.
As a note, there's no maintained rap at the end of the first pitch, just very old tat around a chockstone and a knotted(!) dynema sling holding from a couple nuts, no quicklinks, no redundancy, just keep climbing, the 4th pitch is worth the visit. Oct 28, 2017
Lake Placid, NY
NESteve   Lake Placid, NY
Great rout!!! REAL Dax adventure climbing!!! Oct 22, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Finally climbed this a few weeks ago after years of passing it over. Stout, adventurous route. We did the whole climb in two pitches which worked well. This is a serious route. There is potential for a dangerous pelvis or femur-breaking pendulum if the second blows the unprotected moves before the top of the traditional second pitch belay. The moves are not super hard, but an inexperienced climber could get into trouble here.

The last pitch was one of the harder 5.6's I've ever done. Maybe I wasn't using the face holds. Jun 12, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+ R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+ R
Re' the above comment: Yes, the original line stepped out right onto a 1 1/2 - 2ft wide flat ledge BELOW where the P1 crack gets more difficult. (YES, that John Turner chose to step out of the crack instead of following it tells you something about the difficulty of the crack, eh?! )

From this ledge - which is still there - one used to climb a flake on the (10-15 ft?) wall above this ledge, up to a ramp (belay) and then back left to the corner above the now-most-difficult (5.8 - 5.8+?) part of the corner-crack.

Sometime in the mid-1980's - early 1990's - the flake above the ledge fell off. I believe I was one of the first, if not THE first, climber to arrive at the ledge "sans-flake". Thinking it was no more than 5.7, it took me a LONG time to work out the moves, which were thin-face moves on the left side. Protection was a pin driven at the base of the ledge. Subsequent ascents rated these moves 5.9 R (due to the sure-to-break-ankles-fall-onto-the-ledge-then-pitch-off-backwards-off-the-ledge) and "re-routed" the climb up the corner at 5.8.
May 12, 2015
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
It is true there is a decent horizontal just down and left of the ratty slings in the vertical crack under the roof. I got a tricam and #1 camalot in there to supplement the less inspiring gear above. Also, in addition to the microcam you can get at the end of the traverse on pitch 2, you can get a .75 in a horizontal just a foot or so further right.

I note in the old Mellor guidebook Pitch 1 is described as ending much lower and to the right (piton belay). I watched a pair of climbers with binoculras on this and thought they were off route until I read Mellor's pitch description. Seems this would indeed make Pitch 2 more interesting and different. I've always used the belay under the roofs so I can't say if it is better, worse or neither. Jul 29, 2013
My partner made a gear anchor at the top of P1, to the left of the fixed anchor. My memory is that he placed most of the gear in obvious vertical crack. Seemed like setting the anchor left of the fixed anchor was better positioned for belaying the climbing both for P1 and for P2. Jul 19, 2012
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
From my memory, you can equalize some good gear in a horizontal down and left of the fixed gear at the top of the first pitch. I remember it being a little creative, but confidence inspiring.

Also, see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent information. The issues with the Partition/Mastercharge rappel are really not necessary given the ability to walk off or the climber's right rappel, especially in light of recent events. Jul 11, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
  5.8 PG13
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
  5.8 PG13
A great climb despite the lacking rock quality, the first pitch is an okay off with up to the scary belay station (suggest re slinging the chock stone and clocking in some community service)the crux on p2 is very insecure and well protected around the corner but long runners are a must, once you pull up on the slab on p2 its a cake walk (dont bother looking for pro its not there). Then p3 is simply an approach pitch to the wonderful surprisingly pleasant off with into finger inside corner on p4. Topping out on this climb feels like a real accomplishment and was a great day goal. Id suggest the rap tree climbers left about 100 yards maby, then you rap over mastercharge. Jul 10, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
5.8 G, 5.5 R
Second should probably be solid, big swing potential on P2.

Also, on P2 you can (and probably should) back up the third piton with a micro cam. Anyone can fall, and do you really want to run it out on to an old pin? Aug 7, 2010