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Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff
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Butterflies are Free T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Feet of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flashdance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hesitation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Northern Revival T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Partition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Prelude T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weekend Warrior S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiessner Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner (of course) |
| Page Views: | 4,156 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Michael John Gray on Mar 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
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Wiessner's routes are an amazing thing to climb some 80 years later... [Edit]
Up and Left of Hesitation to the first big corner.
On the left wall look up and see a chimney to a block roof sticking out of the Rock.
Pitch One: Climb the chimney to the block roof, climb the block to the left side and jam past this 5.6 crack to easier climbing. Belay is optional on ledge after small roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to the giant 3rd class ledge.
Move the belay to the far back of the ledge where there are three options for the last pitch.
Pitch Two: Follow the R. most crack/dihedral 30' to the top.
V1 Follow the middle (5.8) finger crack to the top. Nice couple of moves!
V2 Follow the Left Crack/Corner to the top (5.6)
On the left wall look up and see a chimney to a block roof sticking out of the Rock.
Pitch One: Climb the chimney to the block roof, climb the block to the left side and jam past this 5.6 crack to easier climbing. Belay is optional on ledge after small roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to the giant 3rd class ledge.
Move the belay to the far back of the ledge where there are three options for the last pitch.
Pitch Two: Follow the R. most crack/dihedral 30' to the top.
V1 Follow the middle (5.8) finger crack to the top. Nice couple of moves!
V2 Follow the Left Crack/Corner to the top (5.6)
Upstate New York
I did the standard route. Found gear to be lacking for a few moves near the top of P2, in the blocky wide chimney part above the roof before the tree belay/rap. Issue here is the amount of rope out, slack from the pro placed, and low angle of the pitch. Fall would likely be 15 feet onto low angle rock/ledge, even when done right. That means PG.
Also thought the protection on the last pitch was unlikely to stop me from decking, stances were predetermined and spread the first couple pieces a little too far apart. Great climbing nonetheless.
Definitely link P1 and 2 if you have a full rack. #3 cam was handy to protect the roof on P1. There's a few ways to pull the small roof on P1, the belly flop (as describe in the adk rock guide book) is optional. Jun 20, 2011
First and second pitches can be linked without too much trouble,
A 70 meter rope will just make the ground from the first tree when decending Aug 6, 2011
New Paltz, NY
San Pedro, California
Reading, VT
Reading, VT
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
There is lots of loose rock "sitting" on the various ledges of this route - be careful.
P2 (or P4 in the guidebook) has a lot of good looking pro opportunities in vertical cracks but many are formed by very hollow sounding plates. Good gear is available but you have to carefully check it. Oct 9, 2016