Butterflies are Free
Avg: 3.1 from 22 votes
Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff
|Butterflies are Free T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Feet of Fire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Flashdance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Hesitation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Northern Revival T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Partition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Prelude T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Weekend Warrior S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wiessner Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|FA:||P1 Mastercharge: David Lovejoy,Dwight Bradley,Ray Crawford - Butterflies var.: Peter Ulrich, Mark Rechsteiner|
|Page Views:||1,926 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Sep 2, 2009|
DescriptionGeneral: Butterflies are Free is a variation to the first pitch of Mastercharge (5.11b). Its quality, moderate grade, and popularity make it worth noting as a separate route. This route is a great alternate route to gain the 3rd-class ramp that splits the left end of the cliff as well as a great way to approach P2 of Partition.
Route Description: Climb easy rock at the base of the broad corner aiming for the small ledge below and to the left of a small cedar with fixed webbing half-way up the cliff. From here make your way to the obvious crack that starts small but expands to solid hand-size (crux, hard 5.8ish easy 5.9ish). Once you gain the ledge at the top of the hand crack, traverse right to the obvious large ledge and the broad corner. Work up the corner (easier than it looks) till you reach the 3rd class ramp. Either belay from the tree to your left or build a belay on the ramp.
LocationStart: About 50 feet left of the Wiessner Route start. At the base of a broad corner system. Up on the left you can see a hand crack and above a finger crack.
Descent: Two ropes from the large cedar will get you to the ground, but please see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent details for the cliff.