The Creature Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Creature Wall, taken from the top of Chouinards Gu...
Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes.
The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.11, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further.
The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain.
On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you.
Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.
Fall 2016: There is a new approach to the Creature Wall. The old approach was flooded due to beaver activity, so the DEC created this new approach. Park at the Giant Trailhead (pretty much where you used to park) and follow the trail up giant. Go past the sign-in kiosk, then about 300' more to where the trail angles to the right. Turn left off the trail and follow a herd path across a stream, then on a level bench to where it joins the old trail. Continue on the old trail uphill to the cliff, arriving in front of Gob Hoblin.
It takes about 10-15 minutes, same as the old approach, but minus the wet feet!
Weather station 9.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Creature Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Creature Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Creature Wall:
Octo-Pussy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Gob Hoblin 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Christine 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Creature Wall
Arachnid Traction 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c New York
: ... : The Creature Wall
Of all the routes on the Creature Wall, this one sees the most traffic.On the left side of the cliff are two parallel cracks that diagonally split the upper portion of the cliff. Arachnid Traction starts on the face below the cracks in front of a large, nice birch tree and finishes in the right hand crack to the summit. Begin by climbing up the face using the obvious crack system until the first opportunity to step right arises. Step right on some balancy terrain, and jam the right of the two ...[more] Browse More Classics in New York
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 14, 2009
Do not take the advice of this location being wet lightly. I've been out there after it hasn't rained for a few days and there has still been dripping water on many of the routes. The lower sections in the shade of the trees don't dry quickly.
May 31, 2016
Routes are all pretty close to full 30m here -- you may want to carry extras in the finger/hand cam sizes.