Chessman Area Rock Climbing
|GPS:||32.36, -110.72 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||27,397 total · 228/month|
|Shared By:||Hendrixson on May 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThe Chessman Area is a sprawling collection of more than 50 routes. While climbs were established as early as 1979, the crag really blossomed in 2008 when Eric-Fazio Rhicard and Jim Scott started developing the area.
The Chessman Area makes for an easy day of cragging due to its low elevation and proximity to the road. It has the opposite aspect of windy point. The main walls have shade until approximately 2pm.
The breakdown of the area from left to right is as follows:
- Pawn & Chessapeak: The Chessapeak Wall, which is the south face of the Pawn, contains ten routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10-. A number of the routes are traditional or mixed. Additional routes such as Hour of Power and The Phalanx are in the vicinity.
- King: Thirteen traditional and sport lines ranging from 5.9- to 5.12+. Serf's Up (5.12-) on the Rampart and King's Arete are classic. This area includes the King's Rampart sector.
- Checkerboard: Five sport and mixed routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.10.
- Queen: Five routes, one of which is gear protected, ranging in difficulty from 5.10 to 5.11+. Two Kings And A Pawn is a Mount Lemmon modern classic.
- Bishop: One gear, one mixed, and five sport routes comprise this sector. Grades range from 5.10- to 5.12-. Heelium and Flogging The Bishop are popular 5.12- lines. Nuts And Bolts is two pitches, the first of which is mixed.
- Knight: The six front-facing, sport lines range in difficulty from 5.10 to 5.11. Knight Owl and Knight Maneuvers are considered the best. The four traditional and mixed lines on the south face are 5.6 to 5.9+ and all are R rated.
- Lorax & Ball Return: Nine routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.10+. Some are gear and some are sport.
- One Day Wall: Seven moderate sport and traditional routes with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.9-.
Getting ThereWhen driving up the Mount Lemmon Highway pass the Seven Cataracts Vista, continuing a quarter mile. At approximately mile mark 9.4 park in a small, tree-lined pullout on the right that has a drainage.
Disembark and hike straight up the rocky drainage for approximately 15 minutes. The strenuous hike involves a small amount of scrambling but is over soon enough. A fork near the cliff divides the Queen and Bishop sectors. The former is reached by the left, uphill fork; the latter by the right, level fork.
This is also the currently accepted approach for the Pumphouse and the Andy Cook Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chessman Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season