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Routes in 5 - Bishop

Castle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornickopia S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flogging the Bishop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heelium S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Nuts and Bolts T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sacramental Whining S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spanish American Match S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Aleix Serrat Capdevila & Jim Scott (2008)
Page Views: 556 total · 9/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A wonderfully lengthy and varied sport route on the left side of the Bishop formation.

Overcome a few surprisingly perplexing bolts on green lichen covered stone. Carefully continue upward past moderate, slightly unsettling, fractured features (I dislodged a few fit-sized pieces with a brush of the hand). Ascend a left leaning dihedral clipping the fixed chain draw. Battle the final steep headwall, using a broken crack, to the chains.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the Bishop formation. The first few bolts ascend angular green lichen covered rock in contrast to the three routes to the right which start on vertical tan rock. To the right of this route is Flogging The Bishop. There is no route to the left in this sector.

Protection

Approximately 12 bolts to a leaver biner anchor. There is a fixed chain to assist in the cleaning process since the route trends left.

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
Good warm-up for the 12s next door, if I remember correctly even with the chain draw it's a lot easier to just have a follower clean.

Edit: Also a good place to collect bail biners from all the people expecting 10+ climbing between the last bolt and the anchors Oct 30, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
The lower section of this route has a bit of funky rock and it may not be a good idea to pull on everything like a hold in the gym. Dec 23, 2016
Brent Blevins
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Brent Blevins   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Thoughtful climbing on large holds (some questionable) leads to more delicate face moves then, BAM!! There's no way in hell the last moves to the anchor are in the 10 range, it's a bullet hard crux! Mid 11 for sure. Jun 11, 2018

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