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Routes in Andy Cook Wall

Clouds S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Malt Liquor Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Queer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Randy Cook Lives! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

A good wall almost any time of the year. The wall faces northwest and stays shaded until early afternoon all year. In April, for example, the crag goes into the sun at 2:30pm.

The Andy Cook Wall features unique, steep, 5.11 and 5.12 sport routes. Classics include Rain, with its sustained slightly overhung edging and crimping, and Malt Liquor Man, with its absurd underclings and roofs. The routes at this wall were added by various parties over the years so the style and the equipment varies from route to route. Due to the hike and difficulty of the lines it is rare to see other parties at this cliff.

The routes from left to right are:

  • Clouds (5.12+): Hard moves down low lead to easier climbing above; a decent warmup if you pull past the first move.
  • Rain (5.12): Classic sustained edging.
  • Chest Cracker (5.12-): Climbs right facing corner to face. Large hole down low.
  • Queer (5.12-): Large holds lead to thin crux.
  • Transylvanian Warrior: (5.12) Cold shuts; supposedly very good.
  • Too Steep For You Know Who (5.11+): Possibly harder than listed grade; features mismatched glued on hold.
  • Tag Team (5.12+): Possibly easier than listed grade.
  • Randy Cook Lives! (5.12) The most recent addition and arguably the best route at the crag.

Interesting side note: the "Andy Cook" graffiti on top of the wall actually says "Randy Cook".

Getting There

There are two trails to the Andy Cook Wall. Both routes take approximately 30 minutes from car to crag and gain significant amount of elevation.

Option #1
Approach as you would for the Chessman Area. Disembark and hike straight up the rocky drainage for approximately 15 minutes. The strenuous hike involves a small amount of scrambling. Follow the left fork uphill past the Queen and King sectors. After 5 minutes you will reach the Pumphouse. From here crawl through a tunnel at the left side of the formation and continue uphill in a southward direction for 10 minutes. At the summit the shaded, red Andy Cook Wall should be visible to the south and slightly downhill.

Option #2
Park at the small pull out just before the Green Slabs Area (there is a culvert). Hike up the steep drainage for awhile until you can exit right onto solid slabs that lead gradually towards the ridge. You will see Panorama Wall above you and to the left. As you near the ridge you will pass the backside of the Pumphouse on your right. At the ridge the red wall becomes visible.

5 Total Climbs

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