Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 5 - Bishop

Castle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornickopia S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flogging the Bishop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heelium S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Nuts and Bolts T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sacramental Whining S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spanish American Match S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: EFR, JSt
Page Views: 1,950 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jimbo on May 12, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch one, 5.9 trad, pitch two, 160 feet of 5.10 sport with 3 good bulges along the way.

Location

right side of super secret area

Protection

Small rack to 3 inches, 15 draws

Photos

Climbed Castle as an alternate start as there was a lot of water at the crux of this climb. Castle was wet as well but I had a big fat bolt protecting me as I did the crux. This is a really great two pitch route if you can place pro. If not, wet or dry do Castle. The second pitch will make you forget the first sport pitch isn't nearly good as the second. Dec 23, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
true words paul. you can, however, easily bail onto the 5.9 bolted route to the left of it if you get sketched.

as is the norm for mount lemmon, the crack looks terrible but it climbs a lot better than you would expect. cool jamming and stemming up high. Nov 22, 2015
Paul Davidson
  5.10a/b
Paul Davidson  
  5.10a/b
Absolutely stellar climb.
I doubt though that the 5.9 first pitch is for the struggling 5.9 leader. Bit of a run out at the crux and if you miss, or blow the pro, well... it's going to hurt.

Second pitch is just a lot of fun with 3 (?) bulges and moderate stuff in between. Mar 23, 2009
I would bring a few more draws for the long second pitch or you will be down climbing to get them from the bolts below. If you break the last pitch in two you don't need as many draws. Jun 29, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.10-
Braxtron   ...
  5.10-
One of the best moderate multi-pitch climbs on Lemmon. Thanks guys!! May 19, 2008

More About Nuts and Bolts

Printer-Friendly Guide