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Routes in 2 - King

At the queens pleasure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobby Fissure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gambit, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gamesmanship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
King of Slots S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King's Arete S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King's Ransom S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Little King, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Serfs up S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Win, Lose, No Draws S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Jim Scott - 2008
Page Views: 1,618 total · 21/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 13, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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What a stellar line! Great position, exposure, and fun moves up the green lichened arete of the King formation. The minimal hassle of a short approach pitch might deter some climbers, but it is totally worth it.


Pretty easy to find this by just looking up and finding the striking green arete on the left side of the King formation. Climb the approach pitch to a set of anchors on a sizable ledge. The climb is straight up the arete from the ledge.


5 bolts + anchors - 5.11- approach pitch to ledge
8 bolts + anchors


Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
With a 70m, you clip the anchor on the ledge then the first bolt (or two?) on the arete, then downclimb and unclip from that anchor. Something like that, I forget the exact details.

Then you can do it as one pitch from the ground. A lot more comfortable for the belayer too as most people will whip many times figuring out the sequences. Sep 13, 2012
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
A 60M rope works with rope left to spare. We just put a long sling on the anchor at the ledge then went straight into the climb. We didn't have any issues for rope drag over the ledge. Sep 14, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
I heard folks are climbing out right to avoid the crux of this climb making it more 12 than 13-. I pretty much went straight up then right to a big jug when we did it. This may be because I love aretes and had tunnel vision and missed an easier way through that section. Apr 11, 2013
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
It is a bit disappointing that between bolts 5 and 6 you can either take the original finish straight up, which involves a bit of small hold technical trickery, or move right 3 feet and take the trivial jug haul.

This is characteristically a 'choose your own adventure' section then, either the fun way, or the easy way. Apr 15, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Having been on several Lemmon routes over the last few months in this range I agree that this one doesn't quite hit the .13 range. Regarding the two methods, the work around out right versus going straight up stares you right in the face, is not way off the bolt line, and has chalk all over it. You would have to make yourself go straight up the arete which is harder, but not the crux IMO. This is still a great route and well worth checking out. Jun 7, 2013
Tucson, AZ
dah3586   Tucson, AZ
Wanted to try this for a long time, got some pretty sweet pictures of Ryan ______ who climbs with Dominic, posted on this page. Anyhow, we unfortunately lost interest because after all the hype of it being 13 it felt rather disappointing, though not necessarily easy heading out right. Eric I think your tunnel vision is pretty awesome cause that line you picked is so f-ing hard compared to the right hand method - so good someone needs to pull that roof off so you're forced to go direct. Also dominic hates crimping, so he'd never go back to try it. Oh well. Sweet climb though. Jun 10, 2013
Tucson, AZ
dah3586   Tucson, AZ

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