Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: EFR, Kemper Brightman
Page Views: 435 total · 18/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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This route has a short approach pitch to a decent ledge. From here launch into this match of technique, endurance and mental fortitude. Fingerlocks, laybacks, underclings a handjam and even a hueco keep it interesting and varied. The other factor is the angle. This climb overhangs 8 feet or so. It stays in the shade for a long time as well.


Just left of Hour of Power on the North face of the Pawn. From the Chessmen Parking work up the road to the big boulder just up around the corner then angle up and left farther than you might imagine to the base of a red overhanging face.


Bolts 12 of them 3 on the approach pitch


Kemper Brightman   Tucson
A modern classic indeed. Sustained moves FOREVER and a gentle overhang make for a creeping pump that is both maddening and magnificent at the same time! This route is worth seeking out in its own right, but if you are at the chessmen its a mandatory stop.

A 70m reaches part way up the ramp, but doing the approach pitch to the good ledge makes leading ten times easier. Apr 19, 2017
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Awesome stemming and good movement on bullet rock (unlike most of the rest of this area). A 70m gets you down from the upper anchors to the ledge below the start of Hour of Power with rope to spare. It might be possible to do it all in one pitch with careful slingery, though doing it that way would make a ledge fall at the beginning of the second pitch possible. Apr 8, 2019
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Glad you got on this Andy. One of my personal favorites. The short pitch to the belay ledge really isn't annoying and it is big enough that it is comfortable. Apr 9, 2019