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Routes in 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak

Aspen Gold S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bosch Survival Kit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charlie's Checkers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Final Decision S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hip Checker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hour of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Marathon Match S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phalanx, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rack Enhancement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
System 3 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ten Star Whiners T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: EFR, Kemper Brightman
Page Views: 189 total, 24/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route has a short approach pitch to a decent ledge. From here launch into this match of technique, endurance and mental fortitude. Fingerlocks, laybacks, underclings a handjam and even a hueco keep it interesting and varied. The other factor is the angle. This climb overhangs 8 feet or so. It stays in the shade for a long time as well.

Location

Just left of Hour of Power on the North face of the Pawn. From the Chessmen Parking work up the road to the big boulder just up around the corner then angle up and left farther than you might imagine to the base of a red overhanging face.

Protection

Bolts 12 of them 3 on the approach pitch

Photos

Kemper Brightman   Tucson
A modern classic indeed. Sustained moves FOREVER and a gentle overhang make for a creeping pump that is both maddening and magnificent at the same time! This route is worth seeking out in its own right, but if you are at the chessmen its a mandatory stop.

A 70m reaches part way up the ramp, but doing the approach pitch to the good ledge makes leading ten times easier. Apr 19, 2017