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Routes in 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak

Aspen Gold S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bosch Survival Kit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charlie's Checkers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Final Decision S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hip Checker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hour of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Marathon Match S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phalanx, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rack Enhancement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
System 3 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ten Star Whiners T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Eric Murdock 2005
Page Views: 576 total · 9/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the difficult red face to a first set of anchors (used for lowering off) and then proceed up for 70 more feet of giant jugs of all types: underclings, flakes, crystals, and cracks. There is a fair amount holding this climb together, but it is a lot of fun.

NOTE: A 60M rope will not get you to the ground without using the midway anchors!

Location

This route is located on the Pawn formation on the side that faces Catalina Highway. We hiked down the hill while we were climbing at the other Chessman areas. If you wanted to do just this climb it might be quicker to hike up from the road.??

Protection

15 bolts + chain anchors

Photos

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12a/b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12a/b
70m reaches the platform you belay from (up a ramp and below the first bolt).

Crux on the bottom part is height-dependent and the second half is just kind of spooky.

Extend the two bolts to the side of the giant flake so that the rope clears the flake when you move left at the end of the route. Jan 23, 2013