Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Eric Richard, Jim Scott 2008
Page Views: 1,020 total · 12/month
Shared By: Christian on Nov 23, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Technical climbing leads to an overlap and an exciting run to the anchors.

Location

Directly climber's left of "Heelium"

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
I added this route as PG-13, not for the protection, but because of a squarish block about the size of a basketball in the overlaps towards the top that's starting to fracture. It may last for years but will eventually come off. ( it's toward the left higher side of the overlap, will try to mark it next time I'm there). Also would give this route 3 stars except for poor rock quality in that area.

Nov 23, 2011
Jimbo  
Christian you bottom feeder. Why not bring up a pry bar the next time you go and pry the block off.
Come on man pitch in!! Are we not a community! Nov 24, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
I think the block has been removed or reinforced, so I removed the safety rating.

P.S. Jim, I'm not gonna start hacking at someone's route without a second opinion, so it was just a heads-up. Apr 23, 2012
Jimbo  
You don't need a second opinion to pry a loose block off.

I think the block your talking about is gone now anyway. The top is quite a bit harder now. Feb 11, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
I said "fractured", not "loose". I was there last week and it seems fine around that area, so I have no idea whether something physically changed or I was overreacting to begin with.

It was probably not too long after Kreidel pulled off a huge block (and part of an established hold) when I was belaying him at Milagrosa. It landed a few inches behind my head, but only because I was watching him carefully and had some extra time to step forward.

P.S. The top seems like it should be easy but it's tricky as hell, not even close to sending the stupid thing lol Feb 17, 2013
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
I think it's worthwhile to use a foot-long draw on the first bolt of Heelium as a keeper on Flogging. That would avoid a bad tumble if something breaks or something goes wrong, AND it takes clotheslining at the first crux out of the picture. Apr 13, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
One of my favorite 12s on the mountain. Dec 23, 2016
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
Agreed. It is a very nice collection of unusual holds. Dec 24, 2016